

~'yfff:s^f^-', 



12 



The Weekly Florists^ Review^ 



Mabch 8, 1910. 



house can be kept up to the standard as 

 far as temperature is concerned, and yet 

 be far from having ideal conditions as re- 

 gards rose growing, is certain. 



I would suggest that C. L. D. should 

 keep a night temperature of 56 to 58 de- 

 grees, with a day temperature of 60 to 75 

 degrees, according to the amount of sun- 

 shine, but at the same time he should 

 give plenty of ventilation on every favor- 

 able occasion, even at the expense of fuel. 

 There can be no other reason for weak 

 necks than want of proper ventilation. 

 % BiBES., 



PETER M. MILLER. 



Peter M. Miller, elected December 21 

 aa. vice-president of the Gardeners ' and 

 Tloribts' Club of gbston, is a native of 

 Rothesay, Scotland, and served his ap- 

 prenticeship in the seed business with 

 the well known firm of Dobbie & Co., 

 located there. He served three seasons 

 at Dobbie & Co.'s seed farms in Eng- 

 land. Coming to America in 1901, he 

 first had charge of the jlower seed and 

 bulb department of Joseph Breck & 

 Sons, Boston. In 1903 he went to Can- 

 ada and traveled for the Steele-Briggs 

 Seed Co., from Toronto to Vancouver, 

 being later appointed managp of their 

 branch in Winnipeg. Returning to Bos- 

 ton on the reorganization of the T. J. 

 Grey Co., he became one of the new cor- 

 poration and acts as secretary. The 



ing th^ last year as a member of the 

 executive committee and putting in much 

 useful work at the annual banquets and 

 picnics. He is identified with a number 

 of Scottish societies in Boston, and is at 

 present first chieftain of the Caledonian 

 Club, a trustee of the Burns Memorial 

 Association and a member of the Spot- 

 tish Charitable Society. W. N. Craig. 



SPOT DISEASE ON GLADIOLL 



Last spring we received a consignment 

 of America gladioli from an eastern 

 firm. The soil in which we planted them 

 was of medium richness and was also 

 manured. They blpomed nicely, but sev- 

 eral stalks s^med to fot oflP early. When 

 the stock was dug, we noticed that about 

 all this lot was affected with a blotch or 

 scab, showing there was some fungous 

 disease present. 



Our Mrs. Francis Bang gladioli were 

 planted about fifty feet away and they 

 dug clean. Do you think we could treat 

 the gladioli in the same way as Irish 

 potatoes, for scab? S. & S. 



The spot, or gladiolus, disease as it is 

 termed by some, has been a subject of 

 careful study by several state experi- 

 ment stations during the last two years. 

 So far as I can ascertain, the greatest 

 progress in the solution of the problem 

 has been made at Cornell University by 

 Everett Wallace, under the direction of 



Peter M. Miller. 



firm's business has shown a decided gain 

 during the laet two seasons, J. P. A. 

 Guerineau, T. J. Grey and Peter M. Mil- 

 ler all being exceedingly popular in the 

 trade and well known to a large clientele 

 of private gardeners. 



Mr. Miller has been a stanch sup- 

 porter of the Gardeners' and Florists' 

 Club since joining it, being valuable dur- 



Prof. H. H. Whetzel, and, although the 

 work is not complied, I think it has 

 been decided by this station that the 

 disease is of fungous growth. The best 

 means of preventing or eliminating the 

 disease, however, has not yet been deter- 

 mined, owing to further necessary ex- 

 periments which are being made. There 

 is some contention that the spot is not a 



disease, but a condition, or a physical 

 disintegration of the tissues. So far as 

 my personal experience is concerned, I 

 find that where any particular variety is' 

 inclined to this spot it is possible to pro- 

 vide soil conditions, as well as conditions 

 between harvesting and planting time, 

 which, if not entirely eliminating this 

 spot, will greatly reduce the number of 

 bulbs affected. 



I do not believe the treatment for 

 potato scab would eliminate this spot 

 upon the gladiolus bulb, although it 

 might have a tendency to check it. It 

 has been demonstrated to my entire sat- 

 isfaction that gladiolus bulbs that are 

 known to be of strong constitution are 

 less susceptible to the attacks of this 

 spot, chance seedlings being more or 

 less affected, while hand hybridized varie- 

 ties in the same soil and under the same 

 conditions would be immune. 



I understand the bulletin in connection 

 with this experimental work will soon be 

 issued. I would suggest that you confer 

 with Prof. H. H. Whetzel in regard to it. 



Arthue Cowee. 



CYCLAMEN CULTURE. 



[A paper by Christ. Wlnterlch, ot Defiance, 0., 

 read at a meeting of the Detroit Florists' Cluh, 

 at Detroit, Mich., February 21, 1910.] 



In attempting to say a few words re- 

 garding cyclamen culture, it is my desire 

 to state how to grow good plants and 

 what a cyclamen grower should know 

 about it. 



Years of experience in the growing of 

 this beautiful winter blooming plant 

 teach us that Christmas is tke best selling 

 season for cyclamens and effort should be 

 made to sow the seed as early as the 

 middle of August, to get in as many as 

 possible for that. date. Other sowings 

 can be made until January. If sown as 

 late as this, they would, perhaps, with 

 good culture and everything in their 

 favor, make strong 4-inch and 5-inch 

 pot plants, but do not expect them to 

 bloom until a year or thirteen months 

 from their sowing. 



The degree of success in growing 

 cyclamens depends greatly upon the strain 

 of seed used. Always get the best seed 

 grown and of the highest standard, and 

 disappointments will be fewer. 



Sowing the Seed. 



We are sowing our cyclamens* in fiats, 

 12x20x3 inches, inside measure, in rows 

 an inch and a half apart, and in such 

 flats we drop 500 seeds, about one-quar- 

 ter inch apart in the rows. Of course, we 

 usually make a sowing of about 20,000 

 or more at a time. For a florist that 

 grows a limited quantity, I would advise 

 that he sow the single seeds about one 

 inch apart each way and grow them on 

 until the plants have a nice ball of roots 

 established; then shift them into flats, 

 two to two and one-half inches apart, or 

 into 2i4-in<^h pots. I recommend the lat- 

 ter method, as they would make stockier 

 plants if well taken care of while in such 

 small pots. 



The soil to sow in should be a loose 

 mixture of about two-thirds flaky leaf- 

 mold, with some loam, charcoal and sand 

 added. This soil may do also for the 

 first shift. For every following shift add 

 some more loam and old hotbed soil. For 

 the last two shifts ^e. use some horn 

 shavings, mixed with the soil in the pro- 

 portion of a 5-inch potful to a bushel of 

 soil. 



Set the seed fiats, which are thinly 



