8 



The Weekly Florists' Review* 



Afbil 22, 1909. 



NOTES ON THE AUTUMN QUEEN. 



[A paper by Elmer D. Smith, president of 

 the Chrysanthemum Society of America, read 

 before the Detroit Florists' Club, April 19, 

 1909.] 



Some time ago your secretary requested 

 me to supply a paper on chrysanthemums, 

 and as this is a rather broad subject, I 

 will only touch upon the most important 

 phases. 



In the beginning let us consider the 

 plant itself. It is a perennial, which you 

 are aware means a period of active 

 growth, terminating in the development 

 of- flowers, followed by a season of inac- 

 tivity or rest. The most hardy are those 

 whose antecedents originally came from 

 northern China and represent the pom- 

 pons or small-flowering section. Those 

 which are usually displayed and sold in 

 flower shops are either the progeny of 

 natives of Japan or those in which these 

 two classes have been interbred. 



Propagation. 



Those who are propagating for their 

 own use only, will have stronger stock if 

 they adopt nature's way by giving the 

 old plants partial rest. Exciting them 

 into active growth with heat weakens 

 their vitality. Stock plants kept in the 

 light and at a low temperature until the 

 cuttings are needed will furnish the best 

 material for the purpose. 



When the time arrives for propagation, 

 do not hasten roots from the cuttings by 

 strong bottom heat. 



It is true, perennials under glass will 

 grow faster than when under more nat- 

 ural conditions, but ample ventilation 

 will do much to produce a moderate and 

 healthy growth. 



Strong plants and rich soil are impor- 

 tant in the beginning, and with these 

 two things provided at planting time, the 

 results will surely be gratifying, if the 

 watering, airing, tying, fumigating, feed- 

 ing and disbudding are given prompt at- 

 tention. 



Planting on Benches. 



Early varieties require early planting 

 to secure strong plants by the time the 

 early buds appear. The last part of May 

 or first part of June should see such 

 stock . benched, the midseason sorts by 

 June 25, while this work for the late 

 kinds may be deferred until July 15. 



How far apart should they be planted, 

 is a question often asked. Each grower 

 must decide this for himself, for he 

 knows best the grade of blooms which 

 meets his requirements, or can be dis- 

 posed of at a profit. Within certain 

 limits the greater the distance between 

 plants the stronger the growth, the 

 heavier the stem and larger the blooms. 



Eight or nine inches apart each way is 

 a good distance and will produce high- 

 grade oommercial blooms, while for fine 

 exhibition stock ten to twelve inches, ac- 

 cording to the varieties being treated, is 

 considered none too much. Varieties with 

 small leaves, like Ivory, may be planted 



closer than some of the stronger kinds. 

 Nicely finished blooms from four to five 

 inches in diameter may be, had by plant- 

 ing six inches each way, but the stems 

 are usually weaker than when greater 

 space is allowed. 



Occasionally some one asks how many 

 plants will be required for a bench of a 

 certain size. The following rule may be 

 of some service. Multiply the square 

 feet of bench surface by four when plant- 

 ing six inches each way, by 2.25 at eight 

 inches and 1.78 at nine inches apart. 



How many blooms to the plant? This, 

 like the preceding question, is at the 

 discretion of the grower. The greater 

 the number the smaller the size. Two 

 plants of the short-jointed kinds, particu- 

 larly those with small leaves, are often 

 planted together, which gives longer 

 stems than when set singly, and then 

 stopped to secure two or more blooms. 



Let the appearance of the foliage be 

 the index in watering. So long as it is 

 of good color there need be no anxiety, 

 but should it become yellow it is evident 

 there is an overabundance, due either to 

 lack of drainage or too frequent applica- 

 tion. 



Doubtless you are all familiar with 

 the methods and realize the advantage of 

 keeping the plants securely tied, and the 

 same may be said of weeding, fumigat- 

 ing and removing the stools which spring 



up as the plants come into active growtli, 

 so let us pass on to more important fea- 

 tures. This will bring us up to the time 

 when disbudding will need attention. 



Disbudding. 



This operation is simple, but it is im- 

 prudent to defer the work. That excel- 

 lent motto, "Do it now," should be 

 tacked up in a conspicuous place before 

 the buds appear. 



In ithe beginning it was suggested to 

 plant early for early blooms, and if the 

 selection has been judicious there are 

 some kinds which will show buds in July. 

 Those forming at this early date are 

 termed crowns and may be saved on 

 Golden Glow as early as July 1, provided 

 extra early blooms are desired. Probably 

 the best way to manage this variety is 

 to plant from the first batch of cuttings 

 about May 15 and then follow with sub- 

 sequent batches as fast as ready up to 

 June 20, securing the first bud that ap- 

 pears. This should give a succession of 

 blooms from August 15 to October 25. 



Monrovia is also best from early buds,, 

 about July 20 to 25; October Frost and 

 Beatrice May, August 10; Early Snow, 

 Polly Eose, Glory of Pacific and Pacific 

 Supreme, August 15 and later. All of 

 the so-called early buds should be se- 

 lected by August 20 or your competitor 



Elmer D. Smith. 



