'W'V' 



:,v f f ■r-<,,-.t 



-^^ / - '>i 'J7V"I* 



■yi-*<r',,-Z^''.: •-,■; •^■' 



16 



The Weekly Florists' Review. 



NOVBMBBB 9, 1911. 



>*^v<-=;^'<^.'<^<»?».<»i?^ ^^f*!>W^W^';fe»>^^''^g?g 



1^ 



\ SEASONABLE 



T^J^^J^JiSJiS. 



SUGGESTIONS 



,<*^<*^^»^^#^<<^<#^.'^^<*^'^^W^W^^%..<»^.<^^.W^<<^<#^g^; 



Canterbury Bells. 



Canterlniry bolls make superb -flower- 

 iug plants in pots, usually of ex^llenee 

 superior to 'such as are grown outdoors. 

 It is time iTOw to lift and pot the 

 plants, usiii'g G-iiu'h to 8-ineh 'pets, ac- 

 cording to the size of the seedlings. 

 The singles make the most desirable 

 pot plants. Next to them comes the 

 calycanthema or hose in hose type. The 

 double-flowered ones are too heavy. 

 Pink and pure white are the best sell- 

 ing colors. Keep outdoors in an open, 

 sunny spot after ]>otTing, placing in a 

 coldframe before the wcatlier becomes 

 too severe. House early in December 

 for Easter flowefing. For Memorial 

 day blooming, they must be kept cold 

 and held back as much as possible, 

 Even as cut flowers, there are few \ . 

 rieties as generally useful as Canter- 

 bury bells land anyone with a big 

 batch at Memorial day wili coin money 

 on them. ' 



Coreopsis Grandiflora. 



Coreopsis grandiflora is another jier- 

 ennial, usually, however, treated as a 

 biennial, which, while i)opular as a bor- 

 der plant, has been but little appre- 

 ciated as a jiot plant. Pot up a num- 

 ber of strong roots in the same way 

 as Canterbury bells. Keep outdoors 

 for another month; then jdace in a 

 coldframe and, in order to provide a 

 succession of Ijloom, house a few plants 

 every Aveek after Christmas. For Me- 

 morial day flowers, jdace in a tem- 

 perature of .■)(! to .").! degrees at night 

 after Easter and they will be on time. 

 As these are strong rooting plants, they 

 require coj>ious water supplies when 

 growing. If any bare benches are at 

 disposal, plant out a batch and secure 

 extra strong stems in abundance. 



Stevias. 



Stevias will do well in any house 

 kej)t Just clear of frost, but in order 

 to have a succession of blooms, a few 

 pots should be placed in gentle heat, 

 say oil degrees at night, each week. 

 There is such a quantity of flowers in 

 season through Xoveml)er that it is 

 not well to have too many other miscel- 

 laneous flowers. When mums are on 

 the wane the stevias, bulbous flowers, 

 and other odds and ends sell well. 



Llnum Trigynum. 



Aot much grown nowadays, the 

 charming yellow flowering plant, Linum 

 trigynum. is in danger of being lost 

 altogether. It is true the individual 

 flowers do not last long, but we have 

 nothing of this rich orange-yellow color 

 flowering when it does. In a tempera- 

 ture of .50 degrees from this time on, 

 the plants will be in excellent shape for 

 Christmas, and anyone with a batch 

 of them in 6-inch pots, carrying over a 

 dozen flowers each, will have no trou- 

 ble in disposing of them. The proper 

 botanical name of these is Eeinward- 



tia trigyna, but the older name, linum, 

 is nearly always used still by growers, 

 Avho also prefer spira?a to astilbe, cro- 

 tou to codieeum and dracsena to cordy- 

 line, to say nothing of many other re- 

 christened plants, whose new names 

 mean but little to those who are not 

 botanists. 



Biennials and Perennials. 



There are a number of biennials and 

 ])erennials which, while hardy in many 

 states, are not* so in others. This class 

 comprises Canterbury bells, foxgloves, 

 Coreopsis grandiflora, sweet-williams 

 and a variety of somewhat tender per- 

 ennials, including tritomas, Anemone 

 Japonica, rehniannias and incarvilleas. 

 The last named keeps well stored in 

 sand; the others named should be 

 |)lanted quite thickly in coldframes, 

 soaked well with water and left ex 

 posed to the weather until sharp frost 

 hardens the soil about them, when a 

 covering of dry leaves can be scattered 

 on them, and sashes over these will 

 provide an ideal winter protection. 



Summer Flowering Greenhouse Bulbs. 



('loxinias and tulterous begonias, 

 when they have lost their tops, can be 



shaken out of their pots and packed in 

 boxes of sand for the Winter. Often we 

 see them laid under benches in the 

 greenhouses, the prey of sowbugs and 

 other larvae and getting drip in addi- 

 tion. This is a poor way to keep them, 

 and a slovenly one. In the boxes of 

 sand they will winter in any shed or 

 cellar in a temperature of 40 to 45 de- 

 grees; the gloxinias should have a lit- 

 tle more warmth than the begonias. 

 Achimenes can be laid away on their 

 sides on a shelf, and later, when time 

 permits, the roots can be picked out. 

 Fancy-leaved caladiums will soon be 

 losing their foliage; they should be 

 stored in a warm, dry place for the win- 

 ter; 60 depfrees at night will be found 

 about right, and they are better left 

 in the pots than shaken out. 



Foinsettias. 



The bracts will soon show on the 

 poinsettias, and on and after that time 

 the plants must not, on any account, 

 receive any check";' 'A night tempera- 

 ture of 60 degrees, or as near that fig 

 ure as possible, will keep them growing 

 nicely and develop the bracts well in 

 season for Christmas. With shorten- 

 ing days, water must be applied with 

 greater care. In summer the plants 

 seem to keep green, no matter how they 

 are treated; it is otherwise now. Do 

 the watering in the morning; this an- 

 plies not only to poinsettias, but to all 

 other plants. Use stimulants judi- 

 ciously; an overdose means a complete 

 loss of foliage, so it is always better 

 to use moderate doses. Late propa- 

 gated plants may still be made up into 

 small pans and, if kept warm, will 

 make neat little bracts. 



BOTH HAVE STIGMONOSE. 



Herewith I send you a few specimens 

 of my carnations. You will notice that 

 the leaves are spotted. Would you 

 kindly let me know what is the trouble 

 and how I can remedy it? 



P. C. M. 



I am sending you some leaves of ray 

 Enchantress carnations, which are af- 

 fected with some kind of disease that 

 is new to me, and I shall be thankful 

 for any information you can give me 

 about the trouble. Tho carnations were 

 planted in the latter part of July. The 

 soil was top sod — three loads of soil 

 to one of manure, and the plants are 

 in the pink of condition for this sea- 

 son of the year. I keep my beds moist 

 all the time; by this I mean, not too 

 wet or too dry, but ideal for carna- 

 tions, and when I water I soak the beds 

 through. I syringe but little, as there 

 is no need for it, the plants being free 

 from parasites. This disease seems to 

 me to be a drying up of the fleshy part 

 of the leaves, between the little skin on 

 both sides of the leaves. When I bend 

 a leaf and pull off the little skin, I 

 can see that the fleshy part in various 

 places is dried up. As seen in the 



benches, the leaves on the young 

 growths show little blotches of white 

 and look like variegated leaves. I 

 keep the temperature as near to 50 

 degrees as possible, considering these 

 warm nights. I notice that the growths 

 seem a little soft. Any information you 

 can give me will be thankfully re- 

 ceived. • A. F. W. 



The specimens forwarded by both 

 of these inquirers are badly affected 

 with the disease called stigmonose. This 

 is one of the most prevalent of all the 

 carnation diseases, and while it is not 

 infectious, like the leaf-spot or fairy 

 ring, yet, if it is allowed to go unmo- 

 lested, it will sooner or later destroy 

 the vitality of your stock. In fact, it 

 seems that most varieties, after they 

 have served their time, become affected 

 with this disease, which finishes them 

 off. In many cases this disease helps 

 to send a variety down the toboggan 

 sooner than it% natural time. 



These light spots are dried-up cells in 

 the leaf. These cells were destroyed 

 by bacteria which were introduced 

 through the puncture of some insect, 

 such as aphis or thrips. You will per- 

 haps remember some time in the past 

 when your plants were allowed to be- 

 come infested with one of these pests. 



