n 



The Florists' Review 



Max 1, 1913. 



SEASONABLE SUGGESTIONS. 



Miltonias. 



Plants of Miltonia vexillaria will now 

 have flower spikes pushing above the 

 leaves and the earliest ones should be 

 opening about the last part of March. 

 Never mind the leaves taking on a 

 ruddy hue; this wi^ harden them and 

 put them in a better condition to stand 

 the hot summer months. No shade 

 should yet be required for them. A 

 night temperature of 55 to 58 degrees 

 will be found about right. 



Thrips is the arch enemy of this mil- 

 tonia and to keep the foliage clean the 

 plants should be sponged with or dipped 

 in tobacco water. 



A rather more abundant water sup- 

 ply will now be necessary, but avoid 

 spraying the plants overhead. About 

 the middle of April it will be better to 

 move the plants into ^ somewhat cooler 

 house, where they will be shaded from 

 direct sunshine. 



Calantbes. 



It is time to start the bulbs of those 

 beautiful winter-flowering orchids, the 

 calanthes, in flats of sand. You will 

 note the new growths starting from the 

 base of the old bulbs. Do not cover 

 these much, and water only moderately, 

 or decay will set in. Pot the bulbs 

 while the roots are quite short. As a 

 rule, they can be held suflSciently by 

 the compost, but with long bulbs it is 

 always better to support them until 

 they have rooted well into the compost. 

 Drain the pots. w^l and use a compost 

 of three parts flbrous loam, with the 

 fine particles shaken out, and one part 

 dried cow manure, also adding some 

 coarse sand and broken charcoal. Large 

 bulbs of C. Veitchii and C. Regnieri 

 will each require a 6-inch pot; more 

 moderate sized ones, 5-inch, and smaller 

 ones can go three in a pot. Give the 

 plants a minimum temperature of 65 

 degrees. 



PhaioB. 



This is the season when most of the 

 terrestrial orchids are pushing up their 

 flower stalks, and the old but ever use- 

 ful Phaius grandifolius is already in 

 flower. Give the plants a night tem- 

 perature of 60 degrees, a good water 

 supply and weak. cow manure water to 

 strengthen the flo^wer spikes. In repot- 

 ting any.ofttl^e pjants after flowering, 

 use a similar , compost to that advised 

 for calanthes. The, phaius, being morel 

 roUust growing, require larger pots than 

 calanthes, ' bi)t <th'ey want . much cooler 

 treatment^ through^ the growing . season. 



V ^. ^Odontoglosstuns. 



At this season there, are mo^e spikes 



on the odontoglossums than at any 

 other, O. crispum, O. Harryanum, O. 

 Pescatorei and others all being in 

 bloom. Give the plants full sun for 

 some time longer to redden up the 

 leaves. This will make them tough and 

 better able to withstand the summer 

 heat. All the odontoglossums now en- 

 joy a good supply of water at the roots. 

 O. citrosmum, which has been kept dry 

 for some time, is now showing its flower 

 spikes and water can be applied more 

 freely. An oversupply before the 

 spikes show, often causes a failure 

 to flower at all. As the spikes 

 of this odontoglossum are of a 

 drooping nature, the plants are best 

 grown in pans or baskets, suspended 

 from the roof. A temperature at night 

 of 55 degrees is ample for them. All 

 the odontoglossums are benefited by a 



spraying over on bright days. Protect 

 the flower spikes by wrapping cotton. 

 wool around the bases. Snails Which 

 come in sphagnum moss are destTuctive 

 to them. For this reason it is safer aot 

 to use any moss for odontoglossumjs and 

 oncidiums, the spikes of these two 

 species being more relished by sntiilg 

 than those of any other orchids. 



SPOT. DISEASE OF VINCAS. 



Can you tell me what is the trouble 

 with my vincas? The leaves become 

 covered with black specks and then fall 

 off. I am enclosing a sample of the 

 leaves. M. H. W. 



Pick off the affected foliage. Cut 

 out the worst shoots entirely. If any 

 plants are badly attacked, cut them 

 down. I have known of extreme cases 

 where it was necessary to shake away 

 all the soil, cut back the plants and 

 repot in fresh soil in order to shake 

 off this spot trouble. If you have not 

 used any Bordeaux mixture, try an ap- 

 plication of this on your plants. A sec- 

 ond spraying can be given if the first 

 does not stop the spot. Keep the fo- 

 liage as dry as you can in the mean- 

 time. C. W. 



Gotham, Me. — Fred H. Smith, of 

 South street, is building an addition to 

 his greenhouses. 



Allentown, Pa. — The Ellsworth 

 Flower Shop, of which Chas. F. Berke- 

 meyer is proprietor, has been moved 

 from 17 North Sixth street to 1103 

 Hamilton street. 



^BPT^ 



, THEXONVENTIOI^Cim. 



THE MINNEAPOLIS FLOBISTS. 



Floriculture in Minneapolis is nearly 

 as old as the city itself. In 1857 Dr. 

 Alfred E. Ames, uncle of the famous 

 Dr. A. A. Ames, instructed his brother, 

 then a consul in Hamburg, Germany, 

 to send him a gardener. Wm. Bucken- 

 dorf was engaged and came to Minne- 

 apolis. He, therefore, was the first 

 florist. A year later they built two 

 neat greenhouses on Eighth avenue 

 south, between Fourth and Fifth 

 streets. For several years these green- 

 houses were kept for private use only, 

 when Mr. Buckendorf decided to op- 

 erate them for commercial purposes. 

 In 1866 Mr. Buckendorf built a green- 

 house on his own property. Fourth 

 street and Seventh avenue south. This 

 ground was sold for building purposes 

 and in 1890 Mr. Buckendorf built 

 another house on Fourth avenue south 

 and Seventeenth street, which was dis- 

 continued in 1900. 



In 1862 Wyman Elliott, having a 

 large nurspry on Park avenue, buUt two 

 greenhouses where Elliot park is today. 

 •In 18^. E. J. Mendenhall decided to 

 have a few small greenhouses for his 

 private use. He engaged Henry Buck- 



endorf, a brother of William Bucken- 

 dorf. They began in a small way and 

 kept enlarging until the plant was one 

 of the foremost in the country. This 

 was located on Nicollet avenue and 

 Eighteenth street south. First avenue 

 was not opened up at that time. After 

 this plant covered a city block and 

 some space across the street, another 

 one was started at Twenty-eighth ave- 

 nue south and Thirty-eighth street. Id 

 1903 Mr. Mendenhall sold out to L. S. 

 Donaldson, and one year later the 

 greenhouses were torn down. 



About the same year Mr. Mendenhall 

 started, George Brackett built a green- 

 house where the city hospital is now 

 located. This was operated a few 

 years by Mr. Brackett, with Mr. Boo^e 

 as florist, and later Mr. Kilvington. In 

 1883 Mr. Kilvington built a greenhouse 

 near Lakewood cemetery, which hiis 

 been dismantled for many years. In 

 1880 Mr. White started the establisli- 

 ment on Twenty-second avenue and 

 Garfield street northeast, which now 

 belongs to 0. H. Carlson. Mr. White 

 had a nursery, a dairy and one small 

 greenhouse. This was jpurchased in 



[Oontlnacd on PM* 66.1 



^& "XJ. W'.'li -ti^ . ^V' • ~-t -- I*fc' -■ 



