Table of Contents 



chapter 1 



SEAWAY 



1 Introduction . . 1 



2 Generation of Waves by Wind- Jolemcnt.ary 



Rational Approach 1 



2.1 Transmission of Energy from Wind to Harmonic 



Waves 2 



2.2 Effect of Skin Friction 3 



2.3 Evaluation of the Drag Coefficient ('.r. Wiud- 



Tunnel and Flume E.xperiments 4 



2.4 Determination of Cd from Mean Inclination of 



Water Sm'face 6 



2.5 Observations of Keuligan and Van Dorn 8 



2.6 Summary of Cj Data from Previous Sections. . . 10 



2.7 Estimation of Tangential Drag from Wind- 



^'elocity Gradient 10 



3 Energy Balance in Waves and Energy Dissipa- 



tion 13 



3.1 Energy Dissipation (by Bowden, 1950) 14 



3.2 Summary of the Elnergy-Balance Problem 15 



4 Generation of Waves by Wind — Advanced Ra- 



tional .\p|>roach 16 



4. 1 Eckerfs Theory 16 



4.2 Phillips' Theory 17 



4.3 Statistics of the Sea Surface Derived from Sun 



Glitter (Co.\ and Munk, 1954a, b, c) 18 



4.4 Horizontal Drag Force Exerted by Wind — W. H. 



Muiik's Hypothesis 



4.5 Miles' Theory 



5 Growth of Waves in Wind — Practical Approach 



5.1 Method of Sverdrup and Munk (1946, 1947). . . 



5.2 Xeimiann's Work on Wave Generation 



6 Wave Spectra 



6.1 Darhyshirc's Wave S])ectra 



6.11 The Darlivshire ( 1955) spectrum 



6.2 Neumann's Wave Spectrum 



6.21 Total wave energy and evaluation of C 



6.22 Co-cimiulative energy spectrum and seaway 



development for a limited fetch or wind 

 duration 41 



6.23 Roll, Fischer and Walden's modification of 



Neumann's spectrum 42 



6.3 Gelci, Cazale and Vassal's Spectrum 42 



6.4 Spectra of Incompletely Developed and Decay- 



ing Seas 45 



6.5 Comparison of Various Spectra and Methods of 



Wave Forecasting 47 



6.51 Spectra of fully arisen sea 47 



6.52 Wave development with time 48 



8.1 



8.21 

 8.22 

 8.23 

 8.24 

 8.25 

 8.3 



8.4 



8.42 



6.53 Practical wave prediction 



6.6 Descriptive Sjiectrum of Voznesseiisky and Fir- 

 soff (1957) , , ." 



7 Statistics of Directly Observable Sea Waves 



8 Mathematical Representation of the Sea Sur- 

 face 



Probabilistic Versus Deterministic Representa- 

 tion 



Evolution of the Description of the Seaway from 



Wave Measurements 



(Observation 



Recording 



Preparation 



Reduction 



Presentation 



Scalar Sea Spectrum — Theoretical Determina- 

 tion 



Scalar Sea Spectrum — Calculation by Numerical 

 Method: 8.41 Formulation for computing 

 procedure 



Choice of computational parameters — interpre- 

 tation of siJectrum 



8.43 Additional sources of error 



8.44 Sampling variability 



8.5 Scalar Sea Spectrum — Calculation l)y Elctronic 



Analog Filter Method 



Information Derivable From the Wave Spectrum 

 The Directional Sea Spectrum 



E.xtension of the covariance transform method 



Miscellaneous investigations of the directional 

 spectrum 



Present work 



Summary of direction.al siiectnmi 



Research Suggestions 



Development of Semi-Empirical Methods 



Rational Apiiroacli ... 



Condensed List of Suggested Research Topics 



Nomenclature for Chapter 1 



Bibliography 



Code of Abbreviations 



Part 1 — Reference Books 



Part 2 — Comprehensive Sections on Waves Included 



in Books 



Part 3 — Detailed References 



Part 4 — Miscellaneous References. 

 Additional Text References 



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