we were watched attentively by a circle of Arab children who were 

 always willing to help and carry things for us, or to sell Roman 

 coins for cigarettes. 



We soon became acquainted with a team of Arab divers who 

 were spending the season at Apollonia. They Uved on the jetty 

 beneath a canvas shelter supported by oil drums. For furniture 

 they had cushions to sit on and a radio, and would have been very 

 happy had it not been for the bends. The wrecked ammunition 

 ship which they were cutting up for scrap lay in eighty feet of 

 water, and they were in the habit of working in standard gear for 

 eleven hours at this depth, then surfacing without stops. As a 

 result, one man lay in agony on a heap of rugs while his companions 

 comforted him by singing and waiting for him to get better before 

 they continued their work. We tried to explain that the pains would 

 not occur if they dived for a shorter time and stopped on the way 

 up. They would hear none of it. 



"It is the will of Allah," said the afflicted one. "All divers die 

 young. My father died at twenty-seven. I will soon be dead. It is 

 the will of Allah." 



After plotting the main points of the city, we measured the 

 buildings in detail. At the northwest of the site was a cluster of 

 rocks which just broke the surface and which we called the Grotto 

 Reef. This was a natural outcrop which had been carved artificially 

 in such a way that its sides were straight and vertical. Through 

 the rock was a submerged tunnel sixty feet long, four feet wide, 

 and six feet from floor to ceiUng. In one place where the roof had 

 collapsed the sunlight filtered through the watery darkness and 

 glowed greenly against the ancient walls. At the northern boundary 

 of the city were two islands, and outside each was a lagoon sheltered 

 from the sea by a barrier of rock. Cut artificially, the lagoons most 

 likely served as wave traps, like the lagoons at Arvad. On the inside 

 of the west island were ten Greek sUpways, each 23 feet wide, 

 92 feet long, and sloping at four degrees. Greek warships were 

 kept on land except when they were needed in conabat; even the 

 merchant vessels were taken out of water for the winter. 



On the other side of the harbor was a group of solid parallel 

 structures, probably quays. By burrowing in the sand between 

 them we found several complete pots, jars, and small dishes that 

 must have fallen overboard while the ships were being loaded. 

 Scattered over the whole site were thousands of broken amphorae. 

 East of the quays was a square block building keyed together with 

 hollow lead dowels which probably were packed in cold rather 

 than melted in — a technique exactiy parallel to that found at Tyre 

 by Poidebard. 



The central wall of the harbor stretched northward toward the 

 west island and ended as a massive block fortress which guarded 

 the harbor entrance. On the opposite side of the channel was a 

 similar fort. Our 1958 work led us to the conclusion that there had 

 been a fortified harbor between the mainland and the west island, 

 and that it had been protected by a sea wall running between the 

 island and the Grotto Reef. It also seemed that the harbor entrance 

 had been between the west and east islands. 



In 1959 when we returned to Apollonia we searched in the deep 

 water to the east of the site and found scattered rubble and blocks 

 of marble stretching northward from the foot of the acropolis and 



156 



