DEEP-OCEAN SURFACE WAVES (Munk, 1951) 



5" < 



ffiS 

 o z 



^ Ui 

 (/> -I 



ui 



>> 



O X 



111 o 



^ 7 



1.2 



1.0 



0.8 



0.6 



0.4 



0.2 



(Copyright, Council on Wave Research) 

 ALTERATION OF THE CHARACTERISTICS OF WAVES AS THEY CROSS A SHOAL 



1.5 



1.3 



X 



O 



1.2 



ui 



> 



1.1 



1.0 I 



X 



0.9 



0.05 0.10 0.15 0.20 0.25 0.30 0.35 0.40 



DEPTH, RELATIVE TO LENGTH OF WAVE IN DEEP WATER 



0.45 



0.50 



