Preface 
The following pages represent part two of a book entitled 
"A Unified Mathematical Theory for the Analysis, Propagation, 
and Refraction of Storm Generated Ocean Surface Waves." They con- 
tain three chapters which logically follow part one as presented in 
March 1952. Chapters 11 and 12 complete the mathematical derivations 
to be presented by giving additional properties of waves in deep 
water and by deriving the procedures for the analysis of pressure 
and wave records in waters of finite depth and for the refraction of 
a Short crested Gaussian sea surface. 
Chapter 13 is the beginning of that part of the book which 
deals with the practical application of the theories presented in 
the previous twelve chapters. It treats specific examples of wave 
and pressure record analysis both by numerical and electronic methods. 
Part three is still in preparation, and upon its publication, 
this book will be complete. There will be two more chapters. One 
chapter will deal with observations which confirm the forecasting 
theory; and in it a hypothetically complete forecast will be carried 
out. The last chapter will comment on current wave generation theory 
and on the scope of the task which still needs to be done in order 
to put these theoretical results on a firm practical basis. Part 
three may be somewhat delayed because of a summer vacation for the 
author. 
July 1, 1952 Willard J. Pierson, Jr. 
Department of Meteorology 
New York University 
