I et 
This is equivalent to 4.58 watts/cm, or along one kilometer offshore 
there are 458 kw of wave power fiowing toward the shore in the 
vicinity of the point of observation. This amount of power is rather 
puny compared to values which can result from the action of high 
waves, but at least it is an accurate theoretical value based upon 
a sound analysis of the original pressure record. 
Table 20 shows the numbers which are appropriate to the com- 
plete determination of the energy flux toward the shore as has been 
given above for the example being studied in detail. The first 
column is the number, h. The second column is the spectral frequency. 
The third column shows the values of the pressure spectrum in re- 
duced units as it is shown in the center of figure 38. The fourth 
column shows the amplification factors for the pressure power spect- 
rum. The fifth column shows numbers related to the group velocity. 
The product of the last three numbers across each row would yield a 
value for each spectral frequency and the sum of all of the values 
for each spectral frequency would be a number which, apart froma 
constant, would yield the energy flux toward shore. 
The power per unit band in the pressure power spectrum varies 
over a factor of fifty from the greatest to the least. The ampli- 
fication factor varies over a factor of ten and the group velocity 
factor varies from 2.01 to 0.85. Some of the values in the function 
to be integrated, which result from the product of these numbers, 
are thirty-eight times greater than other values. In the significant 
height and period method, one value for the significant height of the 
pressure record and one value for the significant period would result 
in an extremely inaccurate estimate of the energy flux toward shore. 
108 
