Fig. 
31. 
326 
40. 
43. 
44, 
Continued Index to the Figures 
Part II Page 
Graph of the Itcoth as a function of H #“/g and 
Obner related Tunctions. < . sce 6 « « e608 «© © % «eos 
Definition of terms for wave refraction theory... 43 
Aerial photograph over Oracoke ......+.+e-+-+ 7 
Aerial photograph over Swash Inlet .......+ee Zl 
Enlarecement over Oracoke « 3 « 6 « « «© « 2 s+ 6 « « « 72 
Bnlarzement over Oracoke =. 2 at's. « «6 <:3 « © ss se 
Enlargement over Swash Inlet ......e«-«-e-e-«- P74 
The analysis of a pressure record .....+.e+.-e+e 87 
Quantitative power spectra of the pressure record 
and the free surface sn6 sos. seers «° 6. ens «els « SOO 
Comparison of the pressure power spectrum with 
the free surface power spectrum ..... «+e. 94 
Power spectra computed from Seiwell's data (after 
Dukey-eand’ Hamming) . «296.60 sa ess See) ee) eel 
The cumulative power distribution functions for 
time series with cyclic components present .... . 103 
Graphs of the functions needed in the computation 
of the energy flux toward shore and of the integrand 
of equation (12.50) for the power spectrum given 
On PreurastOn . ele Weare chee ee | oisl am Geant ae eee OG 
Graphs of various spectra and autocorrelation 
functions obtained by electronic methods ..... . 114 
122 
