PREFACE 



The principal objectives of the Coastal Geography research program of the Office of 

 Naval Research are to provide new scientific information on the coastal zones of the world, 

 and to enable a better understanding of coastal processes and changes. The complexity of 

 coasts, their diversity and seemingly unsystematic alterations, have long intrigued scientists. 

 However, until recently, comparatively few scientists devoted their efforts to the solution of 

 the many apparent and innumerable obscure problems associated with this land and water zone. 

 Too little was, or in fact, is known of the processes and mechanisms of change. Although a 

 considerable body of theoretical knowledge slowly accumulated, it was not accompanied by a 

 commensurate amassing of precise measurements and observations. World War n brought 

 into clear focus not only the need for specific information on individual coasts, but also, and 

 more important from the research view, the lack of fundamental knowledge concerning coasts 

 in general. The increased and urgent demand for information brought many new scholars to 

 this field. Wartime studies, which frequently took on the aspects of expediency, did much to 

 pinpoint and clarify the basic scientific problems. Today, partly under the sponsorship of the 

 Office of Naval Research, appreciable, yet insufficient, effort is being directed toward the solu- 

 tion of these problems which cut across the various disciplines of science and involve aspects 

 of essentially all the sciences. 



Included in the program of coastal research as conducted by the Geography Branch of 

 ONR are studies ranging from detailed examinations of individual coasts to classification and 

 description of coastal zones on a world basis. A wide variety of scientific and engineering 

 skills, techniques, and procedures are employed. New methods are being developed and new 

 applications are being made of standard techniques. It is to be expected that such a broad and 

 varied program will provide the Navy with many of the answers it seeks. There is also promise 

 of substantial contribution to fundamental scientific knowledge. 



To assure success of this program, it is felt desirable from time to time to bring to- 

 gether some of the scientists participating in the ONR project to present their research find- 

 ings even though these may be preliminary and tentative. This allows the scientists and the 

 potential users among the military services to become acquainted with the progress that is 

 being made, the trends and developments, and to make suggestions for strengthening and im- 

 proving the program. 



The papers published here were presented at the Conference on Coastal Geography. It is 

 earnestly hoped that comments concerning individual tasks or the research program as a whole 

 will be directed to the Geography Branch. 



The Office of Naval Research appreciates the fine spirit of cooperation, service, and 

 interest of the Earth Science Division of the National Academy of Sciences— National Research 

 Council whose untiring effort made this conference possible. 



^^^^ 



EVELYN L. PRUITT 

 Geography Branch 

 Office of Naval Research 



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