OM No. 3U2 



ABSIRACT 



This report presents the results of preliminary ocean 

 wave studies made in an endeavor to learn more about the 

 turbulent characteristics of wind waves in the open ocean. 



A series of hypothetical wave models presented indicate a 

 mechanism of momentian transfer within the waves. 



Two series of wave motion measurements were made, one from 

 a Navy pier in Narragansett Bay and a second from Buzzards Bay 

 Entrance Light Station. The measurements were made to obtain 

 rough data on particle velocity motions in various sea states 

 and to examine their variances, covariances and respective spectral 

 properties. These preliminary measurements Indicated that rela- 

 tively large amounts of wind- imparted moment-um are transferred 

 through the water column by correlations of the wave motions 

 themselves. 



The values of the variances of the particle motions 

 reflected the strong exponential attenuation with depth. The 

 auto-spectra clearly displayed the fundamental frequencies of 

 the wind waves and the low frequency swell. The strong attenu- 

 ations of the wind wave turbulence with depth is contrasted with 

 the weaker attenuation of the swell « 



11 



