Indirect and Direct Benefts. 47 
the bulk of Varro’s. They are still eaten in great numbers on 
the continent of Europe, particular ly during Lent. In Switzer- 
land, where there are gardens in which they are fed in many 
Oi acads together, a considerable trade is carried on in them 
about that season; and at Vienna, a few years ago, seven of 
them were char ged at an inn the same as a plate of veal or 
beef. The usual modes of preparing them for the table are, 
either boiling, frying them in butter, or sometimes stuffing 
them with fa arce-meat; but in what manner soever they are 
dressed, it is said, their sliminess always, in a great measure, 
remains. Those edible snails were introduced into England, 
about the middle of the sixteenth century, by Charles Howard, 
of the Arundel family, and afterwards by the eccentric Sir 
Kenelm Digby, either as being a favourite foreign delicacy, or 
in order to cure his beautiful wife of a consumptive disease. * 
The fashion seems to have taken, for the great master-cook, 
Robert May, has left several receipts for dressing snails among 
the secrets of his fifty years’ experience +; but, “like other fa- 
shions, it soon passed away, for the English have no relish of 
such “liquorish viands.” In proof of this, and as a pleasant con- 
clusion to a long letter, allow me to transcribe for you a story 
from the pen of Sir Walter Scott : — 
“The chemical philosophers Dr. Black and Dr. Hutton 
were particular friends, though there was something extremely 
opposite in their external appearance and manner. Dr. Black 
spoke with the English pronunciation, with punctilious ac- 
curacy of expression, both in point of matter and manner. 
The geologist was the very reverse of this: his conversation 
was conducted in broad phrases, expressed with a broad Scotch 
accent, which often heightened the humour of what he said. 
“* It chanced that the two doctors had held some discourse 
together upon the folly of abstaining from feeding on the tes- 
taceous creatures of the land, while those of the sea were con- 
sidered as delicacies. Wherefore not eat snails? ‘They are 
well known to be nutritious and wholesome, even sanative in 
some cases. ‘The epicures of olden times enumerated, among 
the richest and raciest delicacies, the snails which were fed in 
the marble quarries of Lucca: the Italians still hold them in 
esteem. In short, it was determined that a gastronomic experi- 
ment should be made at the expense of the snails._ The snails 
were procured, dieted for a time, then stewed for the benefit of 
* Some years ago they were introduced into Scotland by Pat. Neill, Esq., 
and placed in his curious and most interesting garden at Cannonmills ; but, 
we believe, they have not prospered, and are gr radually disappearing 
t+ The above particulars are from the works of Pennant, Bingley, KC. 5 
and from Southey’s Omniana, vol. ii. p. 81. 
