and Physical Structure of the adjacent Country. 121 
cipating much pleasure from looking at them when some 
thousand miles distant, but, for the first day or two, I felt so 
dispirited with the magnitude and grandeur of the subject, that 
Thad nearly given up the attempt. As my mind became more 
familiar with the objects around me, I gained courage, and 
rambled about in search of situations from which the best 
general view of the scene might be taken. The grandest 
point of view is, perhaps, at the foot of the limestone rock 
on the Canada side, about 100 yards from the bottom of 
the staircase, the top of which is seen (jig. 22. f); but the 
subject is too vast for the pencil. The wind, the state of 
the atmosphere, the time of the day, &c., produce most won- 
derful changes on the scene, and on the mind; the transi- 
tions of sunshine and shade are the most remarkable. One 
afternoon, whilst standing on the Table Rock (c), contem- 
plating the scene before me, never shall I forget the effect 
of the sun’s rays, darting from beneath a dark cloud, when 
within 15° of the western horizon. This sudden burst of 
golden light flashing on the picture, spread an ethereal charm 
that was quite enchanting. I could scarcely believe that I was 
gazing on the same objects. How exquisitely beautiful was 
the iris * which, in an instant, started into being, and encircled 
this sublime scene with its loveliness and splendour! The 
varied but subdued tints of vegetation, the evanescent and 
floating appearance of the grey-tinted rocks on the opposite 
side, as seen through the thin veil of mist, the deep long- 
drawn shadows from the setting sun, and the hollow sound 
of that mysterious voice that thundered from the gulf, gave a 
spirituality to the whole which it is impossible to describe. 
Early one morning, I went with the guide to pass under 
the water of the Canada Fall: we took off our clothes at a 
hut built at the bottom of the staircase, and equipped our- 
selves with strong shoes, large loose cloaks, and strong, 
broad-brimmed, white painted hats. We had not proceeded 
far over the loose slippery stones, before the guide stopped to 
wash his head at a sulphur spring, which came down in big 
drops : what its virtues were I did not enquire. On turning a 
sharp angle of the rock, a sudden gust of wind met us, com- 
ing from the hollow between the Falls and the rock, which 
drove the spray directly in our faces, with such force that, in 
an instant, we were wet through. When in the midst of this 
shower-bath, the shock took away my breath; I turned back, 
and scrambled over the loose stones, to escape the conflict. 
The guide soon followed, and told me that I had passed the 
* It was not a segment of prismatic colours, like a rainbow, but an entire 
circle. 
