There exist, hcwever, discrepancies betv/een definitions of the 

 term, "state of the sea" and disagreeiaents as to the wave heights 

 to be assigned to the descriptive terras. The fol?LOwlng discus- 

 sion appears in "Instructions to Marine Meteorological Observers." 

 (U. S. Weather Bureau. Circul<ir M, 6th ed . , 1938). nages '^3-55: 



"Ordinary waves which are .aoving vdth the v;ind 

 constitute the 'sea' while a relatively low, undulat- 

 ing sea surface, with inotjon in a direction different 

 from the local v/ind, is the 'swell.' 



"These definitions are not entirely satisfactory. 

 Usually, the ocean surface is disturbed by both forms 

 of wave motion, v/ith the sviell from distant vdnds 

 crossing the local sea. The combined effect is the 

 'sea,' while Lhe well-defined ridges of lAfaves Moving 

 in a different direction frora the local wind are the 

 ' SY/ells. ' 



"The ... scale" /Table III, columns 1, 2, and fj 

 "should be used in classifying the character of the 

 sea disturbance. In recording observations in accord- 

 ance with this scale, 'sea' may be considered to be com- 

 posed of swells, comlDlned with waves produced by the 

 vdnds at the place of observation, 



"The scale of sea disturbance is approximate, based 

 roughly on the observer's Judgment as to the height of 



On the other hand, the "Admiralty Weather Manual," 1938, pages 

 50-51, states: 



"The state of the sea should be reported according 

 to the Douglas Sea Scale (Code XIII), which is here re- 

 produced mth s. table of heights of waves corresponding 

 to the code figures" /Table III, col^amns 1, 2, and 47 

 "... Careful distinction should be made between sea and 

 swell, sea being the waves caused by the wind at the 

 place and time of observation, while swell is wave motion 

 due to past wind or wind at a distance. The direction 

 from which the svvell comes should be noted to nearest 

 comoass no int." 



33 



