of examples and applications of the theory, of examples from the 
work of others which substantiate the theory, and of suggested 
procedures for further verification. 
The work presented herein has been sponsored by the Beach 
Erosion Board and the Office of Naval Research. The Office of 
Naval Research is supporting the research which applies to the 
problem of wave forecasting. The Beach Erosion Board is supporting 
the research which applies to the problem of wave analysis and 
wave refraction. If the reader wishes, he can select the various 
parts of each chapter which apply to each of the Sponsors. However 
difficulties will occur in deciding what parts apply to which 
sponsor because adequate methods of analysis are a prerequisite 
for adequate methods of wave forecasting and a firm understanding 
of basic hydrodynamics is a prerequisite for any part of the theory. 
One of the most important features of government sponsored 
research in science is the wide latitude of action permitted the 
researchers by the sponsoring agencies. This is especially true 
of the Office of Naval Research and the Beach Erosion Board. 
The original contracts were thought of as separate entities, and 
it was planned to present separate reports to each. However, as 
things worked out, it became possible to unify the entire theory 
and present the whole subject as an entity. It is hoped that both 
sponsors will be pleased with the final outcome. 
March 1, 1952 Willard J. Pierson, Jr. 
Department of Meteorology 
New York University 
bal 
