TABLE OF CONTENTS 



Page 



Introduction iv 



Section I 



SUEFACE Waves in Water 1 



General Discussion 1 



Waves of Very Small Height 1 



Deep-Water Waves of Moderate and Great Height 2 



Interference of Waves; Short-crested Waves; White Caps 3 



"Significant" Waves 4 



Empirical Knowledge of Wind Waves and Swell 4 



Measurements of Waves and Swell 4 



Comparison of Measured and Computed Values 5 



Empirical Relationships between Wind and Waves 5 



Growth of Wind Waves 7 



Decay of Wind Waves 11 



Waves Advancing into Regions of Calm 11 



Effect of Following or Opposing Winds 12 



Distance From Which Observed Swell Comes; Travel Time; Speed of Wind 



Which Produced the Swell 13 



Section II 



Forecasting Wind Waves and Swell 14 



Determination of Wind Waves 15 



Wind Direction 15 



Wind Speed 16 



Fetch 17 



Moving Fetch '■ 18 



Wind Duration 18 



Wind Waves 19 



Determination of Swell 20 



Waves Advancing Through Regions of Calm 20 



Effect of Following or Opposing Winds 20 



Diminution of Swell 21 



Alignment Charts and Graphs 23 



Illustrative Example 25 



Forecast of Swell for Brest and Vicinity 25 



References 30 



