CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWEST. 59 



It would be difficult to pictnre graphically that inhospitable country, a land that is drenched 

 with the rains of sunimei' and biu-ied in the snows of winter. Near the headquarters the river 

 divides iut(j a number <»f branches, each of which has its source in a small lake. 



Owing to the i)eculiur nature of the country the river is subject to sudden and great 

 changes in volume. Floods are of common occurrence; the immense rainfall of the summer 

 frequently causes the river to overflow its banks and inundate the surrounding countiy. 



The Noiitak is not navigable for other than native canoes: the many rapids, combined with 

 the shallow water and rapid cuiTCut, renders navigation with larger boats quite out of the 

 qiiestion. 



In regard to the possiliility of a ])ortage from the headwaters of the Noiitak to those of the 

 Colville Rivei, careful inquiry among the natives failed to elicit any information concerning 

 it. Indeed, if such does exist, it is probably too long and difficult to accomplish under ordinary 

 circumstances. It is almost impossible to travel over the tundra lands during the summer ^ea- 

 son, but it is quite possible tliat the same could be easily accomplished dming the winter by 

 sledging. 



The portage from the headwaters of the Noiita.k t(_i those of the Kowak. natives assert. 

 can be made in one day. a fact of much geographical interest. It M-oidd appear from this 

 that the rivers are parallel and ilrain adjoining valleys. There are, however, no features in 

 common lietween the rivers, or Iwtween the valleys drained by them — a fact which, considering 

 their proximity, is very remarkable. One of the most interesting facts devehqjed by a com- 

 parison is the distribution of timl)er. Along the waters of the Kowak, spruce, the ])redomi- 

 nating variety, is very abundant, and frequently attains a diameter of Iwo IVct. On 1he 

 Noiitak. however, it is quite the reverse, and the timlier belt is confined to :\. very limitt-il jxiv- 

 tion of i]n- valley. The cause of this marked difference is possildy owing to the elevated 

 nature of the latter I'egion, and possibly also to some peculiarity in the soil. 



It is to be hoi)ed that the work of exi^loration may contribute somewhat to our knowledge 

 of Northern Alaska, and tlwit some of its problems have been satisfactorily solved. 



NARRATH'E AND DESCRIPTIVE. 



On the morning of July 2. 188.5, the United States revenue steamer Corwiii came to anchor 

 off Hotham Inh4. and onlers detailing me to explore the Noiitak River were received from the 

 commanding officer. 



In anticipation of that event, all prexmrations had been previously made; the canoe, stores, 

 instruments, and general outfit, necessarily limited, were brought on deck in readiness for 

 immediate dejiartnre. The canoe, or three-hatch bidarka, such as is used by the natives of the 

 Aleutian Islands, was procured at Ounalaska. It was twenty-seven feet in length and of aljout 

 two feet beam; the top portion was, with the exception of the three circular hatches, entirely 

 closed. 



Soon after our arrival at Hotham Inlet a numl)er of natives boarded the Corivin. and, 

 with the hoi)e of obtaining further information in regard to the nature of the river, some of 

 the principal men were assembled in the pilot-house of the steamer. Altlumgh many of their 

 number had traveled upon the Noiitak, it was exceedingly difficult to ol)tain any definite infor- 

 mation concerning it. The river was declai-ed to be very swift, shallow, and diffic-ult to navi- 

 gate, and that it would be impossible to do so- in the bidarka. 



Unfortunately, the services of an interpreter could not be obtained, although my own 

 slight knowledge of the language was sufficient for all practical purposes. I was thus forced 

 to abandon my original intention of employing natives only, and having been granted the 

 privilege of selecting a man from the crew, I n;imed Seannm Nelson, who volunteered for the 

 duty, to accompany me. 



The services of a native guide could not l)e obtained, and. although the undertaking was 

 a desperate venture, I determined to go without native assistance of any kind, and felt that we 

 must depend wholly upon ourselves for the success of the undei'taking. 



At 10. oil a. m. the cidter was lowered, and our outfit was passed into it. After seeing 

 H. Ex. 153 11 



