64 CRUISE OF THE STEAMER ('( »RWIN. 



On the nurtli himk of tin; Noiltak, jilioui ten miles ri'om mir present positicm juid trending 

 neiirly east and west, lay a long antl rugged range of mountains; one grouj). occupying a some- 

 what isolated position, was jiarticularly remarkable in appearance. The entire range, from base 

 to summit, was of a light-re(i color and destit ule of all vegetation, save a fringe of gi'cun around 

 the base. The beautiful contrast atfoi'ded by snow-capped summits, red slopes, a.nd gi'een bases 

 formed out! of the most n(^vel and interesting sights in the entire ctjuntry, and (dfcM'ed a study 

 well worthy an arlisfs brush. 



The following morning found us again tracking, striving to overcome the many opposing 

 ol)stacles and ga.in the end of our expedition. The river again divid(«l in its course and pre- 

 sented many almost insupi'rablc dillicidlies every n die thai we ad\anced. The con.staid suc- 

 cession of rapids rendered our work exceedingly hard, but the ainphiliious (juiditiesof our nature 

 made it a matter of little im])ortaiice whether we were in or ont of the watei'. About noon, 

 however, we reached a point where; the Noiltak issued from a single channel, a, condition \\ liich 

 lightened our labor very materially, although the current seemed to have; lost none of its oi'iginal 

 cpialities. At times it reejuired the united exertions of Nelson and myself, up to oui- waists in 

 water, to control the unruly canoe, and then we were by no means always sm-cessfnl. Not- 

 withstanding these difticulties, we made fairly good headway, although l)oth were thoroughly 

 fatigued at night. The country still presented the sanu; severely desolate apjiearance; the 

 mountains on either side; began to converge toward the riv(;r, and some distance above seemed 

 to form a solid wall directly across its path. It is needless to .say that this was a most agreeable 

 prospect, inasTuuch as the river must needs be confined to a channel of ordinary width, a state 

 which would render oni- work very much lighter. 



The next day, July 15. seemed to inaugurate a new era in our worli. At the usual hour we 

 stai-ted on our way, alternately tracking and paddling, as the state of the river permitted. In 

 many jdaces a strong eddy was f(jund along the shores, which was of great assistance to us, 

 although the rocky nature of the banks nuxde it necessary to proceed with great caution. About 

 to o'clock a. m. we entered the highlands of the range and found, to our joy, that all the branches 

 issued from one well-defined and narrow river. The difficulties attending our work during the 

 past ten days had been very great, and we had frequently been placed in dangerous situations 

 during that memorable time: but now the prosjiect seemed much brighter and we entered ujion 

 the work with renewed energy. With the now greater hope of reaching the headwaters, we 

 placed ourselves in the tracking harness and summoned all our latent energies for the renewal 

 of the work. 



In many ])ortions of the river the bard^s became (juite precipitous, and frecpu^ntly broke 

 out into dill's of solid rock. Shortly after noon we enter(;d the Grand Canons of the Noiltak, 

 a section al)out three miles in length, and by fa,r the most interesting portion we had yet seen. 

 Here the perpendicular walls rose hundreds <if feet on either side, seldom ottering a foothold 

 along the bases, while the tops fre(iu(;ntly ovei'hung the river and seemed to threaten momeu- 

 tai-ilv to topple o\'er a.nd crush us bt^neath their [lomlcrous weight. As the river from af»ove 

 enters tin; canons it. |ilunges forward with an almost irresistible force. 



Owing to the ])recarious footing along the (dilt's. oiii- progress was very slow, for it was 

 necessary to track the canoe tin; entire distance. The many rocks which lined the banks, .some 

 of which Wert; subnu'rgi'd, made caution necessary, ami at times we narrowly escaped lieing 

 dash(;d against them by the many cross-currents of the river. After emerging fi'oni the canons 

 the river enters a narrow valley, on eif lH;r sid(; of which arc; high ranges of mountains. There 

 was no change in tin; general aspect of the I'iver; the channel was marked by dangerous rocks, 

 and the curri;id. seemed to have lost none of its strength. Th<; fatiguing labors of the day 

 l)egan to mak(; themselves felt en; inghtfaJI, and at about (i o'clock we went into camp for rest 

 and Teciii)(;ration. 



Proceeding on oui- way the following inoi-uing, we ilragged the canoe through a rapid just 

 above camj), and after ])assing it continueil to paddh; for several hours without interrujition. 

 About 11 o'clock tin; weather, which had become uuusually w-arm. gave evidence of a decided 

 change. A large bhick cloud, which had dai-lcened the eastern sky, gi'adiially rose uidil it 

 reached the zenith, when it ajipareidly ha.lte(l an<l fairly poured its li(pnd contents down upon 



