CRUISE OF THE STEAMER CORWIN. 73 



of nature, simply defy description. One of tlie most noticeable siglits was an immense letter 

 Z, formed doubtless by some great upheaval which bent the strata in the shape described; the 

 angles of the letter were well defined and the entire effect so striking as to render it a most 

 remarkable phenomenon. 



The journey through the canons is accomplished only too soon, and as we finally emerged 

 from the gloomy depths, with a common impulse we tiirned to gaze once more at their wondei's, 

 as if to impress them iii)on the memory. 



We left the grandeur of the mountains behind us .-md plungeil into that dreary stretch of 

 flats through which the riv'er runs almost to the sea, and our work, no longer among the stimu- 

 lating scenes described, became a monotonous and cheerless duty. At (i o'clock we went into 

 camji for the night, having covered the jiortion of river ascended on July 14, 15, and K!. a fact 

 which will convey an idea of the velocity of the current. 



The ne.Kt morning Nelson was dispatched in search of game, an abundance of which was 

 found in the vicinity. Large numbers of geese, duck, and wading birds nest in this region and 

 remain until early fall. At the time of our homeward journey the young birds were well 

 grown and afforded one oi the greatest luxuries imaginable,- especially after the somewhat abste- 

 mious diet which had been forced upon us during the summer. 



One of the greatest misfortunes that befell us was the loss of our salt, an accident which 

 occurred some time previous, and the lack of which was keenly felt. It is one of the most indis- 

 pensable accessions to a camping outfit, and great care should be taken to have an abundant 

 supply. 



Shortly before noon we again broke camp and resumed our way thi'ough the lower wilder- 

 ness. The high water, owing to the still-continued rainfall, rendered our work comparatively 

 light and the rate of speed correspondingly rapid. In its course through the flats the Noatak. 

 no longer confined by the wall of mountains, spreads itself over a large portion of the valley, a 

 feature that makes it difficult at times to locate the main channel. It was generally possible to 

 do so, however, by following the stronger current. 



During the afternoon the rain fell in torrents, which, accomi:)anied bva cold wind, created 

 much discomfort. 



The distant mountains were covered by a heavy fall of snow, and the inclement weather 

 indicated an unusually early winter. The rainfall of the past summer seemed to lie almost 

 luiprecedented ; certainly during my own experience in Alaska I never saw anything to equal it. 



Late in the day we passed a native camp, but, on account of the storm, passed by without 

 halting, as we were desirous of camping several miles below. 



The next morning, Aiigust 8. we determined to reach the coast mountains, if possible, before 

 night, and accordingly were astir and ready to move early in the day. The portion of the 

 river before us was that covered during the first week, a period full of the most jjainful recol- 

 lections. 



As already stated, the Noatak is confined to no definite channel here, but, according to the 

 stage of water, is spread over a tract several miles in width. In most |)ortions, however, there 

 is generally one channel through which the greater volume flows, and is indicated on the chart 

 of the region. As the side channels are not of a permanent character, they are not shown on 

 the chart. 



Our journey through was devoid of any incident of note. The current runs from ten to 

 twelve miles an hour, and, as we were desirous of gaining our destination before night, we plied 

 the paddles vigorously, hojiing to accomplish it. At noon we halted for lunch, and shortly 

 after starting again passed sevei'al bidarkas ri^turning from the coast. In conseciuence of the 

 flooded river they were progressing very slowly, a spectacle which, I regret to say, amused us 

 exceedingly, particularly as we were gliding down on a current of fully twelve knots. 



A short distance Tielow this we .saw several seal, and further down they became very abun- 

 dant. I cannot expi'ess the sense of relief afforded by these signs of our proximity to the coast. 

 Late in the day, as we entered the highlands of the coast mountains, the erratic stream converged 

 into one channel. The Noatak now i-an parallel with and directly behind the Mulgrave Hills, 

 H. Ex. 153 10 



