Table 1. 



Periods T and wave lengths X of dominating 

 waves at different wind velocities. 



v(m/sec) 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 l8 20 24 



Tj^Csec) 0.615 1.42 2.36 3.37 4.5 5-7 7.0 8.3 9.7 11.3 14.5 

 Ai(m) 0.58 3.16 8.7 17.8 31.5 50.8 75.1 107 148 198 327 



TgCsec) 1.76 3.51 5.25 7.03 8.8 10.5 12.3 14.0 15.8 17.6 21.1 

 X2^^^ ^'^ 19.2 43.2 76.8 120 172 236 307 387 481 693 



T^(sec) 1.28 2.56 3.84 5.12 6.4 7*7 9.0 10.2 11.5 12.8 15.4 

 _;^^(m) 2.56 10.2 23.0 41.0 64 92 126 163 207 256 370 



The results of some measiirements of wave heights are represented 

 in figure 6. These measurements relate to observations in the 

 open sea, and as much as possible to stable weather conditions. 

 They were taken by estimating the eye-height above the water line 

 when the ship was on an even keel in the trough of the waves, and 

 leveling the wave crest with the horizon. During the time between 

 October 25 and 30, 1950, in the region SW of the Azores more reliable 

 measurements have been made from the drifting ship at low wind velo- 

 cities between 4 and 10 m/sec. The ship drifted slowly athwart to 

 wind and sea, and acciarate measurements could be made from the over- 

 hanging bow by means of readings at a sounding line with marks hang- 

 ing down into the water. The opportunity for making such measure- 

 ments from the drifting ship arose several times during the voyage. 



The variation of heights of succeeding waves is the most 

 striking feature of fully developed sea, and it seems impossible 

 to decide which height is the characteristic one. A single measured 

 height has only little significance. It was attempted to determine 



21 



