Notation 



X Horizontal coordinate in direction of wave propagation. 



z Vertical coordinate, positive upward from undisturbed 

 sea surface. 



t Time. 



g Acceleration of gravity (980 cm sec ). 



p Density of sea water (1,028 g cm"-^). 



p' Density of air (1.25 x lO"^ g cm'^). 



^ Horizontal component of displacement of a water particle. 



nj Vertical component of displacement of a water particle 



(elevation of sea surface relative to undisturbed level). 



u Horizontal component of particle velocity at the surface. 



w Vertical component of particle velocity at the surface. 



u ' Mass transport velocity at the surface. 



y Wind velocity at "anemometer height" (about 8-10 m above 

 the surface), (v wind velocity immediately over the 

 surface.) 



H = 2a Wave height (a = amplitude). 



A Wave length ( 3t = 27r/A = wave number). 



<r Velocity of propagation of wave (phase velocity). 



c Group velocity, 



E Mean total energy of wave per unit area. 



"Ceff Effective stress of the wind at sea surface. 



ZTn* ^t Normal and tangential component of wind stress. 



f , f^ Dimensionless factors of proportionality. 



6 = HA Wave steepness. 



p = 0-/v Wave age (p^ = ^/Vq^* 



p , p(l), p * Different stages in characteristic wave ages. 



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