turbulent state of surface layers. It seems reasonable to assume 

 that the turbulence, that means the eddying of the surface layers 

 as far as they are concerned In the wave motion, increases with 

 the development of height of the p(l)-wave. By (38) the coefficient 

 of eddy viscosity in the stage of fully arisen S -waves was given 

 as M(p ). In the stage of fully developed p(l)-wave with a height 

 given by (63), we have M(l) as given by (37) when p = 1. For the 

 increase of eddy viscosity during the stage of p(l)-wave development, 

 we assumed M(l) to be a function of wave height H(l) = 2a(l), and 

 put 



M(l) = M(pje ^ ^^-^^m (64) 



where a(l) is the maximtim amplitude of the p(l)-wave. 



As an example, the following table shows the increase of the 

 coefficient of turbulence (eddy viscosity) with increasing p(l)- 

 wave at a wind velocity of v = 10 m/sec: 



a(l)/a(l)jjj 0.25 0.5 0.75 1.00 

 M(l) cgs 36.5 46.9 60.2 77.1 99.0 

 The increase of the p(l)-wave with increasing fetch for 

 stationary wind conditions (Case B) will be, considering 



jr = , and A(l) = const., 



^ ^ = A - D 

 2 dx * ^ 



or 



f- gpa fl = A - D . (65) 



Taking p(l) = 1, we have with (27) 



92 



