LIST OF FIGURES 



Page 



Figs. 1-3 J Frequency distribution of observed wave periods T 



(sec) at different wind velocities. For explanation 



of T,, Tp and T^ see text. (Steady wind conditions.) 14 



Fig. 4. Frequency distribution of characteristic periods 



at different wind velocities (fully developed sea) 16 



Fig. 5* Periods of characteristic waves (T) as functions 

 of wind velocity vdn/sec), (Observations are 

 indicated by symbols.) 18 



Fig. 6. Observed heights of characteristic waves at 



different wind velocities 22 



Fig. 7» Wave pattern of fully developed waves at a wind 

 velocity of 16 m/sec. Computed "wave records" 

 for a time interval of 260 seconds at two different 

 localities. "Wave record" (b) is located 550 m 

 downwind from (a) 29 



Fig. 8. Profiles of wave patterns, showing the variations 

 of dominant waves with space and time at a wind 

 velocity of 16 m/sec 31 



Fig. 9. Profiles of wave patterns, showing the variations 

 of dominant waves with space and time at a wind 

 velocity of 19 m/sec 33 



Fig. 10. Schematic wave profile with a rough surface ("*( ) and 

 wind force components ('^n>'^t) of the effective 

 stress fr" . (cr = velocity of wave propagation in 

 direction of the wind velocity v 48 



Fig. 11. Streamlines of the air over a wavy surface, and 

 distribution of wind components T j^ and "^^ in 

 schematic representation 49 



61 



Fig. 12. Wave steepness 6 = H/A plotted against the ratio 

 cr-'/v = p. Assumed relationship shown by full line 



Fig. 13. Relationship between the coefficients of eddy 



viscosity M(cm-1 g sec-1) and the wind velocity v 

 (m sec~l) at different stages of sea development 

 (wave age p). Values of the coefficients of eddy 

 viscosity shown by symbols.) 73 



Fig. 14. Dimensionless quantities C(p) and B(p) as 



functions of wave age 80 



Fig, 15. Fetch graph. Wave velocity as a function of fetch 

 X and wind velocity v using nondimensional 

 parameters IO6 



135 



