studies in ocean wave refraction and diffraction. Quantitative 

 tests of the solutions to these problems, made in a test basin, 

 such as the coast model test basin of the Beach Erosion Board 

 (1949), would yield much useful information. 



Acknowledgments 



I wish to express my sincere thanks to Dr. Willard J, 

 Pierson, Jr. of the Department of Meteorology, New York Univer- 

 sity, who suggested the theme of this paper, offered useful 

 advice during the frequent discussions I had with him, super- 

 vised the photography, and aided in correcting the preliminary 

 draft. 



I would also like to thank Dr. Bernhard Haurwitz, chairman 

 of the Department of Meteorology, New York University, whose 

 valuable suggestions greatly aided me in preparing the final 

 draft. 



My thanks also to the personnel of the New York University 

 Engineering library. They went to a great deal of trouble to 

 secure some of the papers I desired and in general aided me in 

 every way possible. 



The ripple tank used in these experiments was built at 

 N, Y. U. for the Beach Erosion Board, under the direction 

 of Dr. Pierson and Dr. Rao. 



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