TM No. 377 



ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 



Special assistance in the techniques of statistical analysis was pro- 

 vided by Mr. Rick Lavoie and Miss Diane Riley of the NUWS Computer Labora- 

 tory, and Mrs. Judith Copeland of the Department of Meterology at M.I.T. 

 The assistance of Mr. Francis G. Wyatt, Jr. of the Oceanographic Branch, 

 NUWS, in the field of measurements and in instrumentation development is 

 gratefully acknowledged. 



Valuable assistance was obtained from Mr. Allen Massey of the NUWS 

 Hydrodynamics Laboratory, and from Mr. Edward Brainard III and Mr. Courtland 

 Converse of Braincon Corp. of Marion, Mass., in problems of instrument cal- 

 ibration and design. Thanks is owed to Mr. Leo Williams of the U. S. Coastal 

 Engineering Research Center, Washington, D. C- for use of the wave staff BBELS 

 data and to the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, Washington, D. C- for pro- 

 viding records of the BBELS tide gauge. 



Mr. Gerald Brigham, formerly of the NUWS Advanced Study Group, offered 

 valuable advice, particularly on the theoretical aspects of the work. Dur- 

 ing the course of this study, the author has been fortunate in having dis- 

 cussions with, and in obtaining pertinent advice from the following persons: 

 Professors Erik L. Mollo-Christensen and Edward N. Lorenz of the Department 

 of Meteorology, M.I.T. ; Professor Donald Harleman of the Department of Civil 

 Engineering, M.I.T.; Professors Willard Pearson and Dennis Kirwan of the De- 

 partment of Meteorology and Oceanography at New York University; and Dr. L. A. 

 Earlston Doe of Bedford Institute of Oceanography, Dartmouth, Nova Scotia. 



The technical editing of this report was done by Mr. Leon C- Hull, Jr. 

 of the NUWS R&D Publications Division. His work is greatly appreciated. 



The cooperation of the U. S. Coast Guard and, in particular, the assis- 

 tance of the personnel stationed aboard the Buzzards Bay Entrance Light 

 Station is greatly appreciated. Gratitude is due also to the officers and 

 men of the U. S. Navy Air Torpedo Unit, Quonset Point, R. I., for their un- 

 failing, and often exciting, helicopter transportation between Newport, R. I. 

 and the Light Station. 



The author deeply appreciates the opportunity provided by the directors 

 of the U. S. Naval Underwater Weapons Research and Engineering Station for 

 pursuing this dissertation as part of the Station ASW Oceanographic Research 

 Project . 



Finally, the greatest debt of gratitude is owed Professor Victor P. 

 Starr, my thesis advisor. It was he who suggested the area of study and, 

 more importantly, followed through with constant advising and an unending 

 source of encouragement as the work progressed (and, at times, regressed). 

 He has been the prime inspiration and a most valuable teacher. 



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