78 BULLETIN OF THE BUREAU OF FISHERIES. 
polished on the outside, there is seen to be an almost exact dividing line between the 
smaller brilliantly iridescent portion and the larger merely lustrous portion. Muckets 
and related shells produce no iridescent buttons. Some may be obtained from the blue- 
point, three-ridge, and washboard, but these are often not otherwise up to grade in 
quality. Buttons from these shells often require bleaching, and it has been observed 
that the process of bleaching increases the degree of iridescence. 
Although iridescents, when carefully selected, command a good premium, they are 
comparatively too few to make it generally worth while to work particularly for them. 
Care must be taken that the entire button is cut from the iridescent portion without 
overlapping of the forward portion of the shell. As a rule, no special effort is made 
to cut them, but as a number are cut incidentally, a premium may be paid to the sorters 
to separate them from the others. In consequence a limited number of clear iridescents 
are obtained which can be sold at a good price. When ordinary buttons of good grade 
were bringing 38 to 40 cents per gross, iridescents would bring 75 cents. Indeed, if 
there were any regularity of supply the price could undoubtedly be raised much higher 
and still the demand be good. 
BLEACHING AND DyrEInGc.—References have previously been made to the preva- 
lence of stained, spotted, or otherwise discolored shells. Such shells or portions of shells 
constitute a considerable proportion of the undesirable waste. Manufacturers have 
long striven to find proper processes of removing the discoloration without detriment 
to the quality of the product. Old methods of bleaching embraced the use of alkalies 
which injured the shell and caused the buttons to disintegrate or to break in the laun- 
dries. Hence bleaching came into disfavor in the trade, and some purchasers decline 
to purchase buttons believed to have been bleached. Bleaching as now generally 
practiced, however, is not injurious. Factories employing this process have each their 
own peculiar formulas or methods, but until very recently the essentials of the process 
were probably the same in most plants—peroxide, chloride of lime, and heat, with 
variations in the degree of heat and the period of action. Other chemicals are now 
employed in secret processes which seem to be very effective. 
Without bleaching, discolored buttons may be used to advantage for the produc- 
tion of smoked-pearl buttons, which are blackened by staining with sulphur and silver 
nitrate. Various dyes are also used in the production of fancy buttons of bright colors, 
as red, green, or blue, to suit the capricious demands of fashion. Some are now being 
so treated chemically as to produce an excellent imitation of the buttons made from the 
Trocha shells of Japan, but with better finish. Many shells in nature have beautiful 
colorings of purple, salmon, or pink, but the shades are not adapted to market demands, 
and it is claimed that the colors are liable to fade unevenly. Consequently, beautiful 
as some shells appear in natural condition, they must be classed as waste unless some 
effective process of bleaching or staining be applied. 
CARDING, PACKING, AND SALE.—Certain factories work for the bulk trade—that is, 
for the supply of garment manufacturers who do not require the goods carded; others 
for the carded trade exclusively, while some are prepared to supply both. 
If the bulk trade is supplied, it remains after sorting only to pack and ship; other- 
wise, the buttons must be attached to suitable cards. Sometimes the sewing is done 
in the factory; in other cases, more so in the past than at present, buttons are given out 
to women at home who wish to earn pin money at spare moments. 
