TURNER] 



CLOTHING. 



209 



for these is a kind of " combination," the trousers and body sewed 

 together and cut down the back to enable the infant to get them on. 

 A cap of calico or other cloth and a i^air of skin stockings completes 

 the suit. 



Both mi-n and women wear, as an additional protection for their feet 

 in cold weather, a pair or two of short stockings, locally known as 

 "duffles," from the name of the material of which they are made. 

 These "duffles" are cut into the form of a slipper and incase the 

 stockings of the feet. Over these are worn tbe moccasins, made of 

 tanned and smoked deerskin. The Eskimo women are not adepts in 

 making moccasins; a few only can form a well-fitting pair. They 

 often employ the Indian women to make them, and, in return, give a 

 pair of sealskin boots, which the Indian is unable to make, but highly 

 prizes for summer wear in the swamps. 



The Koksoagmyut do not wear caps, 

 the hood of the frocks being the only 

 head covering. There is, however, in 

 my collection a cap obtained from one 

 of the so-called "Northerners," who 

 came to Fort Chimo to trade. This 

 cap (No. 3242, Fig. 29) was evidently 

 copied from some white man's cap. 

 The front and crown of the cap are 

 made of guillemot and sea-pigeou 

 skins, and the sealskin neckpiece also 

 is lined with these skins, so that when 

 it is turned up the whole cap seems to 

 be made of bird skins. 



We may now proceed to the descrip- 

 tion of the different garments in de- 

 tail. 



The coat worn by the men and boys, 

 and by the girls until they arrive at womanhood, has the form of a 

 loose shirt, seldom reaching more than 2 or 3 inches below the hips, 

 and often barely covering the hips. The neck hole is large enough to 

 admit the iiead into the hood, which maybe thrown back or worn over 

 the head in place of a cap. 



The Innuit of the southern shore of the western end of Hudson Strait 

 often cut the coat open in front as far up as the breast (Figs. 30 and 

 31, No. 3224). The favorite material for these coats is the skin of the 

 reindeer, three good-sized skins being required to make a full sized coat 

 for a man. Coats made of light summer skins are used as under- 

 clothing in winter and for the only body clothing in summer. The 

 skin of the harp seal {Phoca grmnlandica) is also used for coats, but only 

 when the supply of reindeerskin runs short, or when a man can afford 

 to have an extra coat to wear in wet weather. It is not a very good 



11 ETH 14 



Fig. 29. Eskimo I)ird.skin cap. 



