284 THE HUDSON BAY ESKIMO. 



A pair of these breeches is never ornamented with paint, as they are 

 usually not exposed to view. 



A pair of leggings extends from the upper portion of the thigh to the 

 ankles. The leggings (Fig. 91 ) are each made of a single piece some- 

 what in the form of a narrow bag open at each end. They are held in 

 position by means of a string attached in front and fastened to the 

 upper portions of the breeches. The seam is on the outer side of the 

 leggings and along it is sewed a strij) of deerskin having the edges cut 

 into fringe. The leggings are painted in much the same fashion as the 

 coat. 



The moccasins (Fig. 92) are rarely ornamented, except with beads on 

 the tongue or else with a strixi of red, blue, or black cloth. 



In the construction of a moccasin the measure of the foot is taken if 

 it is intended for a person of importance or ii' the maker attempts to do 

 skillful work. The sole is cut out first iu the shape of a parallelogram. 

 The edges are turned up and creases made around that portion of the 

 deerskiu which surrounds the toes and a part of the side of the foot. 



Fig. 92. — Indian moccasins. 



The creases are made perpendicular iu order to take up a portion of 

 the slack of the skin. They are held in position by a stout sinew thread 

 run through each one and around to the other side to prevent them 

 from separating and thus " bagging " over the toes. This is the most 

 particular part of the work and ou these stitches depend the skill of 

 the maker. The sides of the foot and heel are not creased as the heel- 

 seam takes up the slack for the posterior portion of the moccasin. 



The tongue of the moccasin is a piece cut into a shape resembling 

 that member with the tip of it over the toes. This is sewed to the 

 edges of the creases, and between it and the creases is often sewed 

 a narrow welt of skin or cloth. The superfluous edges of the slipper- 

 shaped shoe are now trimmed off, and the top, or portion to cover the 

 ankle, is sewed on. This portion is a long narrow strip of inferior 

 skin of sufiBcient size to overlap iu front and to come well above the 

 ankles. It is left open like the tops of laced shoes. Just below, or at 

 the edge of the tops, a long thong of deerskin is inserted through sev- 

 eral holes, which allows it to pass aiound the heel and below the 



