W aves 
The waves of the ocean break on every shore. They pound 
the rock-bound coasts, grinding rock against rock, building 
reefs and bars; they toss mighty liners about at sea with ease. 
Sometimes they are smooth and gentle, sometimes high and 
rough—they have a thousand moods and tricks. What can 
science tell us about the waves? 
WHAT CAUSES THE WAVES? 
It is a matter of common knowledge that when a stone is 
dropped into a pool of water a circular pattern of little waves 
(or ripples) is set up which moves away from the center of 
disturbance. Physics tells us that the falling stone has given 
up part of its energy of motion to the water, and that it is this 
energy which causes the ripples to circle out and away from 
the spot where the stone fell. 
Now, fortunately the waves of the ocean are not formed by 
falling stones. (They would have to be pretty big stones at 
that!) At sea the waves are produced by other disturbances 
such as the wind, or perhaps a submarine volcanic explosion 
or an earthquake on the ocean floor. But whatever the imme- 
diate cause, the water suddenly finds itself with an extra 
amount of energy which it gets rid of by sending out waves— 
a kind of “share the wealth” scheme. In short, when the water 
of the sea is disturbed by the wind, a passing ship, or an ex- 
plosion, it has energy imparted to it. This surplus of energy is 
distributed over neighboring bodies of water by means of 
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