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  THE 
  M 
  IDE' 
  W 
  I 
  WIN 
  OF 
  THE 
  OJIBWA. 
  

  

  DRESS 
  AND 
  ORNAMENTS. 
  

  

  While 
  it 
  is 
  customary 
  among 
  many 
  tribesof 
  Indians 
  to 
  use 
  as 
  little 
  

   clothing 
  as 
  possible 
  when 
  engaged 
  in 
  dancing, 
  either 
  of 
  a 
  social 
  or 
  

   ceremonial 
  nature, 
  the 
  Ojibwa, 
  on 
  the 
  contrary, 
  vie 
  with 
  one 
  another 
  

   in 
  the 
  attempt 
  to 
  appear 
  in 
  the 
  most 
  costly 
  and 
  gaudy 
  dress 
  attain- 
  

   able. 
  The 
  Ojibwa 
  Mide' 
  priests, 
  take 
  particular 
  pride 
  in 
  their 
  ap- 
  

   pearance 
  when 
  attending 
  ceremonies 
  of 
  the 
  Mide' 
  Society, 
  and 
  sel- 
  

   dom 
  fail 
  to 
  impress 
  this 
  fact 
  upon 
  visitors, 
  as 
  some 
  of 
  the 
  Dakotan 
  

   tribes, 
  who 
  have 
  adopted 
  similar 
  medicine 
  ceremonies 
  after 
  the 
  cus- 
  

   tom 
  of 
  their 
  Algonkian 
  neighbors, 
  are 
  frequently 
  without 
  any 
  

   clothing 
  other 
  than 
  the 
  breechcloth 
  and 
  moccasins, 
  and 
  the 
  armlets 
  

   and 
  other 
  attractive 
  ornaments. 
  This 
  disregard 
  of 
  dress 
  appears, 
  

   to 
  the 
  Ojibwa, 
  as 
  a 
  sacrilegious 
  digression 
  from 
  the 
  ancient 
  usages, 
  

   and 
  it 
  frequently 
  excites 
  severe 
  comment. 
  

  

  Apart 
  from 
  facial 
  ornamentation, 
  of 
  such 
  design 
  as 
  may 
  take 
  the 
  

   actor's 
  fancy, 
  or 
  in 
  accordance 
  with 
  the 
  degree 
  of 
  which 
  the 
  subject 
  

   may 
  be 
  a 
  member, 
  the 
  Mide' 
  priests 
  wear 
  shirts, 
  trousers, 
  and 
  moc- 
  

   casins, 
  the 
  first 
  two 
  of 
  which 
  may 
  consist 
  of 
  flannel 
  or 
  cloth 
  and 
  be 
  

   either 
  plain 
  or 
  ornamented 
  with 
  beads, 
  while 
  the 
  latter 
  are 
  always 
  

   of 
  buckskin, 
  or, 
  what 
  is 
  more 
  highly 
  prized, 
  moose 
  skin, 
  beaded 
  or 
  

   worked 
  with 
  colored 
  porcupine 
  quills. 
  

  

  Immediately 
  below 
  each 
  knee 
  is 
  tied 
  a 
  necessary 
  item 
  of 
  an 
  Ojib- 
  

   wa's 
  dress, 
  a 
  garter, 
  which 
  consists 
  of 
  a 
  band 
  of 
  beads 
  varying 
  in 
  

   different 
  specimens 
  from 
  2 
  to 
  4 
  inches 
  in 
  width, 
  and 
  from 
  18 
  to 
  20 
  

   inches 
  in 
  length, 
  to 
  each 
  end 
  of 
  which 
  strands 
  of 
  colored 
  wool 
  yarn, 
  

   2 
  feet 
  long, 
  are 
  attached 
  so 
  as 
  to 
  admit 
  of 
  being 
  passed 
  around 
  the 
  

   leg 
  and 
  tied 
  in 
  a 
  bow-knot 
  in 
  front. 
  These 
  garters 
  are 
  made 
  by 
  the 
  

   women 
  in 
  such 
  patterns 
  as 
  they 
  may 
  be 
  able 
  to 
  design 
  or 
  elaborate. 
  

   On 
  PL 
  xxill 
  are 
  reproductions 
  of 
  parts 
  of 
  two 
  patterns 
  which 
  are 
  

   of 
  more 
  than 
  ordinary 
  interest, 
  because 
  of 
  the 
  symbolic 
  significa- 
  

   tion 
  of 
  the 
  colors 
  and 
  the 
  primitive 
  art 
  design 
  in 
  one, 
  and 
  the 
  sub- 
  

   stitution 
  of 
  colors 
  and 
  the 
  introduction 
  of 
  modern 
  designs 
  in 
  the 
  

   other. 
  The 
  upper 
  one 
  consists 
  of 
  green, 
  red, 
  and 
  white 
  beads, 
  the 
  

   first 
  two 
  colors 
  being 
  in 
  accord 
  with 
  those 
  of 
  one 
  of 
  the 
  degree 
  posts, 
  

   while 
  the 
  white 
  is 
  symbolical 
  of 
  the 
  mi'gis 
  shell. 
  In 
  the 
  lower 
  illus- 
  

   tration 
  is 
  found 
  a 
  substitution 
  of 
  color 
  for 
  the 
  preceding, 
  accounted 
  

   for 
  by 
  the 
  Mide' 
  informants, 
  who 
  explained 
  that 
  neither 
  of 
  the 
  

   varieties 
  of 
  beads 
  of 
  the 
  particular 
  color 
  desired 
  could 
  be 
  obtained 
  

   when 
  wanted. 
  The 
  yellow 
  beads 
  are 
  substituted 
  for 
  white, 
  the 
  blue 
  

   for 
  green, 
  and 
  the 
  orange 
  and 
  pink 
  for 
  red. 
  The 
  design 
  retains 
  the 
  

   lozenge 
  form, 
  though 
  in 
  a 
  different 
  arrangement, 
  and 
  the 
  introduc- 
  

   tion 
  of 
  the 
  blue 
  border 
  is 
  adapted 
  after 
  patterns 
  observed 
  among 
  

   their 
  white 
  neighbors. 
  In 
  the 
  former 
  is 
  presented 
  also 
  what 
  the 
  

   Ojibwa 
  term 
  the 
  groundwork 
  or 
  type 
  of 
  their 
  original 
  style 
  of 
  orna- 
  

   mentation, 
  i. 
  e. 
  , 
  wavy 
  or 
  gently 
  zigzag 
  lines. 
  Later 
  art 
  work 
  con- 
  

  

  