BULL. H<t I 



ADORNMENT 



19 



it about the iserson in a way that emplia- 

 sized their action or the expression of 

 emotion. 



It was eonimon for a tribe to liave its 

 peculiar cut and decoratit)n of the moc- 

 casin, so that a man's tribe was pro- 

 claimed by his foot o^ear. The war shirt 

 was fre(]uently painted to represent the 

 wearer's jtrayer, having tiie design on 

 the back for protection and one on the 

 breast for victory. The shirt was occa- 

 sionally decorated with a fringe of human 

 hair, locks being generally contributed 

 by female relatives; it rarely displayed 

 war trophies. The most imi)osing article 

 of the warrior's regalia was the bonnet 

 with its crown of golden-eagle feathers. 

 Before the introduction of the Imrse the 

 flap at the back rai'ely extended below 

 the waist, but when the warriors got to 

 be mounted "the spine," with its ruff of 

 feathers, was so lengthened as to equal or 

 exceed the height of the man. Song and 

 ceremony accompanied the making of a 

 war Ixinnet by warriors of the tribe, and 

 a war honor was recoimted upon each 

 feather Ijefoie it was placed in position. 

 A bonnet could not be made without the 

 consent of warriors, and it stood as a 



HOPI MAIDEN 



merly dwelling on the plains, and of those 

 of the Pacific coast, was replete with 

 ornamentation wliich, either in design or 

 material, suggested rites or past experi- 

 ences and thus kept alive beliefs and his- 

 toric memories among the people. Such 



record of tril)al valor as well as a distinc- 

 tion granted to a man by his fellow 

 tribesmen. 



The gala and ceremonial dress of the 

 Pueblo tribes of the S, W., of those for- 



YUROK GIRL IN GALA DRESS. 



were the woman's dress of the Yurok of 

 California; the fringe of the skirt was 

 wrajjped Avith the same vegetal materials 

 as she used in her basketry, and her 

 apron was an elaborate network of the 

 same on which depended strands of shells 

 with pendants cut from theabalone. In 

 the same connection may be mentioned 

 the manner of dressing the hair of a Hopi 

 maiden; the whorl on each side of her 

 head symbolizes the flower of the squash, 

 a sacred emblem of the tribe. The horses 

 of warriors were often painted to indicate 

 the dreams or the war experiences of 

 their riders. Accouterments were some- 

 times elaborately ornamented. 



Consult Abbott, Prim. Indus., 1881; 

 Beauchamp (1 ) in Bull. N. Y. State Mus., 

 no. 41, 1901, (2) ibid., no. 73, 1903; Boas 



