102 BUREAU OF AMERICAN ETHNOLOGY _ [pute 65 
run the entire length of the piece. Work is begun at the toe in the 
same way as before, but with from 20 to 30 elements. As the weay- 
ing is finer and there are more elements the leaves do not, of course, 
run the whole length of the sandal, but are replaced, as they run 
out, with new leaves. Each added leaf is woven for a few stitches 
beside the old one in order to set it in solidly; then the old one is 
brought out on the underside and there left protruding. As the 
weaving progresses a number of these ends of leaves are left on the 
underside, and when the sandal is finished they are all trimmed off 
evenly about half an inch long, making, when somewhat shredded by 
wear, a soft and strong layer of 
fiber covering the whole sole. 
Plate 37, 6, a sandal finished 
but never trimmed, shows the 
leaves protruding on the under- 
side; the top (pl. 37, a) is en- 
tirely free from “work ends.” 
In this finer woven type the 
toe is neatly rounded off and 
shaped for right or left foot; 
some examples have a little jog 
or offset (pl. 36, a), the use of 
which is not clear. In all cases 
the heel as well as the toe is 
carefully finished and the ends 
are so worked back into the 
weave and brought out on the 
bottom as to make it difficult, 
in the finished and trimmed 
piece, to tell where the work 
begins and where it ends. The 
edges of some of the sandals 
are plain, as in the first class 
(pl. 36, a) ; others have a single 
or double border (pl. 36, 6), which appears to be made of a different 
and more involved weave than the simple over-two under-two method 
employed in the bodies of the pieces. Careful examination, how- 
ever, shows that these borders are of exactly the same weave and 
were produced by pulling the elements, as they approached the edge, 
so tightly that they rolled up on each other, making a thickened 
selvage. There is, of course, no structurally imposed limit on the 
length of these sandals; they range from children’s size, 6 inches long, 
to large examples, 12 inches in length. There is one specimen in the 
collection (pl. 36, ¢) that has yucca fiber cords woven into the lower 
surface in a geometrical pattern. This was probably done to give 
Fic. 36.—Simplified drawing showing weave 
of Type I, a, 1, sandal. 
