Boas] SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION 363 
strips of bark which had been dyed black in a manner probably 
similar to the dyeing processes known over all the region. In the 
plaited work, wherever designs were desired, the thin strip of black 
was laid over the strands, which were woven, and was carried along 
with the warp or woof. The end of the overlay was caught be- 
neath a crossing element and thus was both hidden and secured. In 
such work, although checker patterns or such designs as might be 
created in beading are usually the artistic limits, it is also possible to 
obtain solid color effects because the plaiting elements and conse- 
quently the overlay run in two directions. The same overlay process 
is pursued in the twined work. The fine black strip is placed on top 
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Fic. 108.—Quill work, Alaska. A.M.N.H. 
of the element to be twined and is carried along with it. If only one 
of the twining elements is so covered the resulting design will show 
only every other stitch black, but if both are covered continuous 
lines of color are achieved and quite elaborate designs may be worked 
out. Perhaps it is superfluous to remark that no trace of the designs 
may be seen on the wrong side of the work. On the twined specimens 
the finished appearance resembles the Tlingit false embroidery. But 
there is an important technical difference, since in false embroidery 
the bark is whipped around the twining element only when it appears 
on the outside of the fabric; that is, in front of the warps. In the 
overlay work the bark follows the twining element throughout its 
passage. The individual stitch in false embroidery has a more verti- 
cal trend than that in overlay. The false embroidery stitch is akin 
to that used in coil sewing, since it wraps around the element, while 
the overlay stitch is a straight running process exactly like beading. 
