FEWKES] RUINS OF CEMPOALAN 2H5 



inspector of archeological monuments and one or two others, tlie 

 ruins of Cempoalan passed the next decade without being disturbed 

 or even visited, and a new jungle spread itself over the stately pyra- 

 mids. The author made two excursions to Cempoalan in February. 

 1905, remaining there a week on his second visit. The limitation of 

 time prevented extended work at the ruins, but photographs of the 

 main buildings were made and data regarding them collected. Even 

 this limited work was attended with some difficulty, since the clearings 

 made b}' Troncoso in 1891 had already disappeared, the ti'ees and 

 underbrush having grown to so great an extent as to obscure the build- 

 ings, making it difficult to secure satisfactory photographs. Although 

 much of this vegetable growth was cut away by the owner, the jungle 

 is still dense over the greater part of the nuns." 



A visit to the ruin Cempoalan can be readily made from Jalapa or 

 Vera Cruz in a single day. It lies not far from the left bank of the 

 Chalchalicas or Actopan river, a short distance from the coast and 

 two hours' ride on horseback from a station on the railroad between 

 Jalapa and Vera Cruz, called 8an Francisco. The roads (plate xciv) 

 from this station to the ruins are fairly good, passing through a com- 

 parativeh' level country, lined in part with groves of tropical trees 

 to which cling beautiful air plants, and in the branches of which 

 live many parrots and other brilliantly colored birds. The shortest 

 road passes through hamlets called Gloria and Bobo, and near the 

 latter is a ford of the Rio Actopan. Although tlie road from San 

 Francisco to Bobo at first is uninteresting, distant mountains are 

 alwaj's visible, and as the traveler approaches the river trees are more 

 numerous and the country becomes more attractive. 



On the right side of this road before fording the Actopan' there 

 ai"e several artificial mounds belonging to the Cempoalan group, the 

 first being passed a mile from what was once the central plaza of the 

 city. After fording the river the traveler crosses several irrigating 

 ditches and the cultivated fields increase in number, showing evidences 

 that much of the plain on the left bank of the river is fertile and once 

 may have been extensively farmed. *" 



a My investigations in tlie state of Vera Cruz were greatly facilitated by Governor Dehesa, wlio not 

 only gave me permission to study his valuable collection, but also directed the owner of the hacienda, 

 Agostadero, and the alcalde of San Carlos, to aid me in every way. I take this opportunity to 

 express my gratitude to Governor Dehesa for this and many other kindnesses. Don Firmen Zarete, 

 owner of the property on which Cempoalan stands, Sr Alejandro Viu, alcalde of San Carlos, and 

 Mr Gaw, of Jalapa, also rendered valuable assistance, for which I wish to thank them. I was accom- 

 panied to Cempoalan and Xicochimalco by Sefior Ximenes, photographer of the governor of Vera Cruz. 



b G6mara says the river crossed by Cort6s was about a mile from the court of Cempoalan, which is 

 approximately the distance of the Bobo ford (Paso del Bobo). He also mentions the irrigated gar- 

 dens (Huertas de regado), which were evidently north of the Actopan, through which the road 

 passes. From G6mara's account it appears that Cempoalan was not a compact city with buildings 

 crowded together, but composed of many clusters of buildings, each surrounded by gardens, and 

 groves of tree-s so tall that the buildings were not visible from a distance. 



>■ Actopan, according to Alonzo de Molina, means land, rick andJ'eHUc. Its Aztec rebus is a maize 

 plant growing out of an irregular circle lilled with black dots. Note, however, the difference in 

 spelling the name of the river, Actopnit and Atorpnn. 



