HHDT.ir-KA] WRITER'S TRIP ON YUKON 91 



ness of the water the boat, though drawing only 18 feet, stands 

 far out from the shore and makes a pretty sight, looks also quite 

 large in these waters where there is nothing above a few hundred 

 tons. 



Am soon at home. The captain's cabin, with three beds, is nicely 

 furnished, but has the disadvantage of being situated at the very 

 rear of the vessel, above and beyond the screw. There is another 

 passenger, a teacher-nurse for Barrow. I take the isolated bunk on 

 the right, and this becomes my corner for the next six weeks. 

 Toward 11 a. m. the wind begins to freshen, soon after which we 

 leave for St. Lawrence Island. After midday the wind increases 

 considerably, waves rise, and the Bear begins to plunge. Before 

 the afternoon is over the wind blows a half gale and we are being 

 tossed about a great deal. Have to take to bed. The boat is being 

 tossed up and down and in all directions. Resist in vain, then at 

 last become ill. and this passes into a long spell of about the worst 

 seasickness I have ever endured. There were a good many sick on 

 the Bear that evening and night. 



Saturday, July 24. Wind and water slowly quieting down, and 

 the boat is approaching Cape Chibukak off St. Lawrence Island, 

 where is located the main of the two villages of the island, known 

 as Gambell. The Bear gradually approaches to within about a 

 half mile of the shore, where we anchor. The water here is quieter, 

 and before long a large baidar (native skin boat) is shoved off from 

 the land and approaches our boat. This is the usual procedure 

 when the sea permits. There are no docks, and closer in there is 

 danger from rocks and shallows. There are a number of natives 

 in the boat, together with the local teacher, and each one, including 

 the teacher, carries a smaller or larger bag of fossil ivory, various 

 articles made of fresh ivory, and some other objects, for sale to 

 the officers and crew of the boat. They climb on our deck, where 

 they evidently feel quite at home, and in a few minutes carry on 

 a busy trade and barter with everyone. I succeed in getting a 

 fine fossil ivory pick; but the main supply had evidently been pre- 

 empted and I only see it later in the possession of the officers, who 

 kindly let me have what is of less value to them and more to 

 science. 



Some of the Eskimo bring, in addition to the ivory, other articles 

 for sale — fish, birds, and the meat of the reindeer, which are for the 

 ship's messes and constitute very welcome additions to the diet. 

 Besides all this the natives also frequently bring skins of foxes and 

 even bear, which also find buyers. In return the boats carry off the 

 mail and such supplies as they have obtained by barter or purchase. 

 These visits are mutually enjoyable as well as profitable occasions, 



