hkdlicka] WRITER'S TRIP ON YUKON 107 



crowded. I talk through an interpreter — a serious disadvantage — 

 on cleanliness. Fine study for me on the many present, though like 

 elsewhere on such occasions they are mainly women and children. 

 Good many Indianlike faces, though cheekbones more prominent 

 and more flatness between them. But hair, low foreheads, eyes (ex- 

 cept in children where they are more superficial, less sunken, and 

 with more epicanthus than in Indians), lips, and other character- 

 istics the same as in Indians. Some of the faces are strong, many 

 among the younger pleasant, some of the young women handsome. 

 A moderate number of mix bloods, even among the adults. Color 

 of skin in full bloods medium to submedium brown, exactly as in 

 full-blood Indians along the Yukon, but cheeks more dusky red. 



The behavior of these people is in all important points radically 

 that of the Indian, but they are more approachable and open and 

 matter-of-fact people. More easily civilized. Good mechanics. 

 Less superstitious, more easily converted to white man's religion. 

 And good singers. Their singing at the meeting in the schoolhouse 

 would have shamed a good many whites in this respect. 



Except for epidemics, I am told, these natives would more than 

 hold their own in numbers. They are fecund, if conditions are 

 right. Sterility is rare. They marry fairly young. 



August 3. Still standing, though we had to pull out farther 

 south and away from the shore. The water was pretty rough and 

 I had to go to bed again, but weather moderated. 



We are in touch with the world through the ship's radio, but get 

 more trash — same all through the radio service in Alaska — than 

 serious news. Spend time in reading, talking: some play solitaire 

 games; captain and Allen play cribbage. Deck too small for any 

 outside games, even if it were not so cold. 



Ice floes filiating about us, now scarce, now thicker; water splashing 

 against them and wearing them out into pillared halls, mushrooms, 

 and other strange forms. Due to their snow covering, the water 

 upon them, so far as it results from melting, is sweet, and in it swim 

 many small fishes. It snowed a bit again to-day. 



August 4. No change, except that the sea is somewhat calmer. 

 and for a while we have once more seen the sun. but it was hazy 

 and just mildly warm, while the same wind, from the sea. even though 

 row subdued, has an icy undertone. It snowed a little this morning. 



Thursday, August 5. Sea calm, atmosphere hazy, but the wind 

 has turned at last slightly offshore and the sun penetrates through 

 the mists, until it conquers and shines, warm and bright if not 

 wholly clear, once more. Ice visible only on the horizon. At 7.1"> 

 we start on another effort to reach Barrow. 



Pass Wainwright, and all is well until after lunch, when fog 

 (though fortunately not thick) develops and the floes increase until 



