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INSTITUTE OF SOCIAL ANTHROPOLOGY PUBLICATION NO. 6 



ments, worn while plowing, while fishing, or in 

 any other hard and dirty work, are almost al- 

 ways decorated in some fashion, in contrast to 

 store pants and shirts. 



There are slight differences between the cal- 

 zones and camisas of the Mestizo men and those 

 of the pure Tarascans, showing that even the 

 most characteristic native costume is being mod- 

 ified in the direction of catrin clothing. Taras- 

 can calzones have no open fly, and are made 

 wide enough at the waist so that one can step 

 into them with space to spare. Waist tapes are 

 also lacking, so that the sash, optional in the 

 case of Mestizo calzones, is essential. Tarascan 

 calzones, unlike those of the Mestizos, have 

 tapes to tie the cuffs to the ankle. Mestizo shirts 

 have been modified toward catrin style with the 

 addition of the standard collar and buttons at 

 neck and cuff. Tarascan shirts usually lack 

 these innovations. Remembered in Tzintzun- 

 tzan, but no longer worn, are pull-over shirts 

 which opened down one shoulder. 



Blue denim overalls, store purchased, are 

 favored for heavy work, such as digging clay 

 for pots, wood cutting, and other occupations 

 in which there is apt to be a good deal of wear 

 and tear. Often they are worn over the calzones, 

 or over undershirt and shorts, with a muslin or 

 cotton shirt. Pants, properly speaking, are blue 

 jeans or cotton in various colors and designs, 

 and occasionally wool. Jackets may be of blue 

 denim or other cotton or wool materials, and 

 occasionally a sweater is seen. For warmth on 

 cold days, however, the gabdn, a small serape 

 which reaches only a little below the waist, is 

 the favored garment. A few men own complete 

 suits, and most of those with store clothing have 

 a necktie or two. Bright-colored silk shirts, 

 either locally made or imported, are owned by 

 all except the poorest men, for festive days. 



Huaraches come in a variety of patterns, 

 some consisting merely of a few straps fas- 

 tened to a sole, and others carefully woven 

 of narrow strips of leather in the form of a 

 slipper. The traditional leather sole is rapidly 

 being replaced by rubber from old tires; it is 

 disconcerting to encounter on a trail where a 

 wheel has never passed the impressions of non- 

 skid treads. No huaraches are made in Tzin- 

 tzuntzan; most are purchased in Patzcuaro, and 

 repaired from time to time by local shoe repair- 



ers. Shoes, likewise, are for the most part pur- 

 chased in Patzcuaro. Store socks are often worn 

 with shoes, but never with huaraches. Bandana 

 handkerchiefs are owned by most adult men, 

 regardless of type of costume worn. 



From early childhood no male ventures into 

 the street without a hat; one would prefer to be 

 seen without pants or without a shirt than to be 

 seen hatless. Hats are of palm, sewn in con- 

 centric circles rather than woven, very thick 

 and heavy, and painted white. Tlie brim is wide, 

 turned down slightly in front and up slightly 

 at the rear, and the crown is low and narrow 

 so that the hat perches precariously on the top 

 of one's head rather than actually fitting. A 

 red, blue, or black felt strip usually passes 

 through eyes in the sides of the crov/n, and is 

 tied at the front or on top, with the other end 

 hanging at the back of the neck. Leather bands, 

 often decorated with silver ornaments on the 

 more expensive hats, are common, and potters 

 and muleteers often have a 20 cm. steel awl 

 stuck in the band, to be used in sewing up gun- 

 ny sacks. 



The hats most commonly worn in Tzintzun- 

 tzan are made in Jaracuaro and Cehuayo, both 

 in Michoacan, and San Francisco, Guanajuato. 

 The differences in shape are relatively slight i)i 

 comparison to the wide variety of Mexican hat 

 styles. Parenthetically it may be said that an 

 analysis of Mexican hats, their styles and dis- 

 tributions, and reasons for preferences in dif- 

 ferent regions, would be an extremely interest- 

 ing study. The almost pathological devotion to 

 hats in Tzintzuntzan — and Mexico in gene- 

 ral — is difficult to explain. Apparently it is 

 the one item of clothing which custom demands 

 must be worn, and few are those in any society 

 who like to defy a rigid custom. In this sense, 

 at least, there are no social rebels in Tzintzun- 

 tzan. 



Though not a visible part of costume, all men 

 from early youth carry the wickedly curved 

 tranchete jack knife (fig. 5) inside the shirt on 

 the left, where it can easily be reached. In 

 spite of much drunkeness and the presence of 

 a dangerous weapon, there is very little knife 

 fighting in Tzintzuntzan. 



A man of average means will have a ward- 

 robe about as follows. Prices are those of the 

 new garment. 



