STEVENSON] ORIGIN OF THE CLANS 41 



to look for the Middle place, saying-: "'If 3'ou find it we will go there. 

 The others will go eastward to look for the Middle place/' 



The Zunis keep the location of Hiiu^'Hpinkla from the knowledge of the white 

 man. They declare that the writer was the first American to visit the sacred sjjot. 

 It was out of the course of the Spanish invaders, and it is certain that no student has 

 before seen the place. While a stage road from the railroad to St. Johns, Ariz., 

 passes nearby, there is nothing in eviilence to induce the traveler to alight. To 

 avoid the high mesas the writer, with the younger brother Bow priest, a shi^vanni 

 and theurgist, followed the old California wagon road over a desert country devoid 

 of every vestige of animal life. Kwa'kina, an extensive ruin, was found (5 miles 

 northwest of Zufii. On reaching a miniature forest of scrub cedars, about .35 miles 

 from Zuni, a dry but otherwise attractive camp was made. At sunrise the following 

 morning, after proceeding a mile or two, the road was left and an untraveled country 

 followed 5 miles to the southwest, the Indians constantly asserting that water would 

 be found nearby; finally the three Zunis separated, each running many miles, but 

 they returned without success. Determined to reach the destined point, they urged 

 the writer to continue the journey, saying they would again hunt for water. On 

 her refusal to comply with their wish, a dispute resulted which was soon (luelled, 

 however, and, after sharing water from the keg and canteens with the thirsty animals, 

 all heads were turned toward Zuni. 



After a few days a new start was made by a more southern route. Pi'nanai, an 

 extensive ruin on a knoll a mile west of Zuni, on tlie St. Johns road, was passed. 

 The St. Johns road was left to the south before reaching Ojo Caliente to avoid any 

 questions as to the destination of the travelers w^hich might be asked by the people 

 of this village. The second morning out brought the party to a difficult road. After 

 an unsuccessful attempt by the driver of the escort wagon to ascend, the wagon was 

 practically unpacked and the material transported by the patient, faithfid Indians. 

 Finally, after strenuous efforts, the mules and wagons reached the sunnnit (plate 

 VI a). After a short distance had been traveled on the mesa, it became neces.>iary to 

 build a road in order to descend. One of the Indians, knowing the writer's objec- 

 tion to their driving her team, hurried to the top after the road had been improved, 

 and, without warning, jumped into the wagon and started down the hill. His 

 apology was: "I knew you would not let me drive if I asked you, and I was afraid 

 if you drove you might be killed. It was better for me to die." After much 

 trouble the party began traveling over the lowlands. After proceeding several miles 

 'Kia^napiilto, the last of a series of springs, which figures in the 'Kiiiklo myth (.<!ee 

 page 85) was reached. 



About 30 miles from St. Johns the travelers turned northward to traverse a country 

 unknown to all, though two of the three Indians of the i)arty had visited H:in"li- 

 phikia some years before by a trail which took them over an altogether different 

 route, and had a vague idea of the proper course to take. An obscure wagon road 

 was discovered by the Indian guide, leading up and down mesas, many being 

 difficult of ascent. Finally the guide declared that the road must l)e left and the 

 party go more toward the north. After traveling some miles in this direction 

 the writer was obliged to stop her Indian companions and compel them to make 

 camp. One of the Indians descended to the valley below to make a recoiniaissance 

 for water. He returned after dark with a specimen of a ceremonial stone knife, a 

 red pottery bowl, and a (juantity of fragments of pottery, telling the writer of exten- 

 sive ruins where the specimens were found, and also brought the good news that the 

 animals could be watered in the morning. By sunrise one of the In<lians was off 

 with the thirsty beasts to refresh them; the others jiacked the wagon and ere long 

 the march to Hiin'lipinkta was renewed. Five miles to the northea.^t the |>arty came 

 to the fissure in which ll;in'liplnkla is to be found, and camp was made near a group 



