370 THE ZUNI INDIANS [eth. ann. 22 



deerskin, well tanned, and colored reddish brown, or occasionally 

 black; the}' have rawhide soles, and are fastened on the outer side 

 with silver buttons. To afford additional warmth the foot is often 

 wrapped in a piece of cloth before drawing on the moccasin. In wet 

 weather the moccasins are usually left ofi', and for snow on the road 

 and in very cold weather pieces of goatskin or sheepskin are tied over 

 the feet, the wool inside. The deerskin leggings, which extend from 

 below the knee to the ankle, are usuall}' of the same color as the 

 moccasin. They have a line of silver buttons down the side, and are 

 wrapped around the leg, and held in place by red woven garters. A 

 knit stocking leg of blue j^arn is worn under them. A silk kerchief or 

 a banda, wrapped in the Turkish fashion around the head, is worn by 

 those who can afford the extravagance, others wear a cotton head- 

 kerchief. A leather bow wristlet, ornamented with silver, is commonly 

 seen on the left wrist. Necklaces of white shell, turquoise, and coral 

 beads, more or less elaborate, according to the wealth of the wearer, 

 are the principal adornments. Turquoise bead earrings, tipped with 

 bits of coral or a red stone precious to the Zunis, are attached ta the 

 necklaces, unless they are removed for ceremonial occasions, when they 

 are worn in the ears. The well-dressed Zuni seldom appears without his 

 blanket unless the thermometer is unusuall}' high, and every man who 

 can secure one possesses a Navaho blanket, which he wears in prefer- 

 ence to the coarser and less ornamental weave of home manufacture. 

 Rabbit-skin blankets, woven of strips of the skins, though much used 

 in the past, are now very rare. 



The women's dress is picturesque and is donned when the girl is about 

 four years of age, before which the children of both sexes wear little 

 or no clothing in warm weather. The gown is of black diagonal cloth, 

 woven in one piece/' embroidered at top and bottoni in dark blue.^ 

 The cloth is folded once and sewed up to within a short distance of the 

 top, and again the top edges are caught together for a few inches, 

 draping gracefully over the right shoulder. The arm passes through 

 the opening, while the gown is carried under the left arm. A long 

 belt of Zufii or Hopi manufacture is wrapped several times around the 

 waist. It is generally tightly drawn by the younger women and 

 tucked under, with the ends falling a few inches, one end of the belt 

 having a deep fringe. A cotton camis, similar in shape to the dress, 

 is worn beneath, and a high-necked and long-sleeved garment is also 

 worn under the dress and next to it; this is left off for ceremonials. 

 The neck and wrists of this garment are finished with bands, which 

 are fastened with silver buttons. A pi'toni, which is a piece of white 

 cotton or of calico, tied in the front at the neck and falling over the 

 back, is an indispensable article of dress. The woman whose hus- 



« Navaho dresses are woven in two pieces. 



b This style of finishing is exclusively Ziinian. The Hopi Indians weave in their blue borders and 

 the Rio Grande Indians liave red mixed in the borders of their gowns. 



