372 THE ZUNI INDIANS [eth. ann. 23 



the nape of the neck. A person whose hair is being dressed holds 

 each end of the string while the hair is brushed again; and it is fre- 

 quentl.y spat upon as it is folded over and over. The hair-dresser, 

 taking first the right-hand string, wraps it tightly around the hair, 

 which is formed into a bow. The other end of the string is also 

 wrapped around the hair, and the string is firmly tied. The tongue is 

 frequently used in smoothing every hair into its place. The bow is 

 now wrapped with a red woven garter or with red yarn. When the 

 hairdresser has finished, the man separates the bangs, which fall to 

 the eyebrows, and brushing both sides back with the hands, he ties a 

 head-kerchief or a silk band around his head. The woman's hair is 

 done up in a similar manner in the back. Instead of a bow she wears 

 a queue, so wrapped with a garter or yarn as almost to obscure the 

 hair, except in certain ceremonies when the hair, which has been 

 previously braided to render it wav}"," falls down the back. After the 

 hair is dressed the woman or girl, by a peculiar manipulation of the 

 fingers, separates her bangs, which fall to the lower lip, on one side 

 and catches up the hair behind the ear. In dancing, grinding, and all 

 other ceremonies the bangs fall over the face. Bangs are worn for 

 the same reason that Turkish women veil their faces. The Zuiiis say, 

 ^'It is not well for a woman's face to be exposed to the gaze of men." 



WEAVING 



The Zunis depend upon their native blankets for bedding and to a 

 large extent for wraps, though the Navaho blankets are worn by men 

 and boys, and are used as saddle blankets. Commercial wool cards 

 are in general use. The Zunis spin with a primitive spindle, a slender 

 stick passed through a wood or stone disk.* Their blankets, as a rule, 

 are made of wool of its natural colors — white, gray , brown, and brownish- 

 black — woven in stripes; but they also dye the wool in two shades of 

 blue, using indigo, and urine as a mordant, mahogany red, yellow, and 

 green. ^ 



It is the opinion of the writer that the pueblo blankets in the past 

 were more elaborate in design than now, and that the Navahos learned 

 to weave from the pueblos. It is further believed that as the pro- 

 gressive Navahos became greater experts in weaving, the art of the 

 Zunis deteriorated: they came to depend on the Navahos for the 

 better grade of blankets. 



In ISSI a 3'oung })oy about 12 years of age became jealous over the 

 writer's admiration for the Navaho blankets and determined to see 



a Two men were observed to have naturally wavy hair. 



bDr Washington Matthews, U. S. Army, in the Third Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology, 

 gives an exhaustive account of Navalio weaving. In stating that the Zuiiis employ a different method 

 from that of the Navahos in handling the spindle, Dr Matthews is in error. The method shown on 

 plate XXXIV of Dr Matthews's paper is a favorite one with the Zuiiis. 



c A full description of the preparation of yarn for weaving will be given in a forthcoming paper 

 Specimens of native-dyed yarn were secured in 1904 after prolonged efforts. 



