HOFFMANj 



BEADWORK 



271 



beads, there being an alternate movement of the pair of warp cords 

 backward and forward, thus making it similar in appearance to the 

 preceding pattern, excluding the beads, when the latter are placed 

 sidewise. 



The woof thread is run to the side of the garter, and a bead is then 

 passed through and returned in the next upper sj)ace, where another row 

 of beads is taken up to continue the design. When the opposite border 

 of the garter is reached, a single bead is again threaded and permitted 

 to extend as a projection to guard the external warp threads against 

 injury. 



A third variety of beadwork is effected by using the vertical warp 

 cords as before, but instead of passing the threaded needle through 

 one bead at a time, whenever a vertical thread is passed, the necessary 

 number of beads required to reach across the pattern, as well as the 

 proper arrangement of colors to carry out the design, are threaded and 

 laid down on the warp so that each bead falls within its proper space; 

 then, as the lateral thread is inclosed by the weft thread, the needle is 

 passed back through the same row of beads, but this time beneath the 

 warp instead of above, thus entirely inclosing the weft. This requires 

 a delicate needle and a tine though strong thread. This variety of 

 beadwork is usually found only in gar- 

 ters, whereas the other two forms oc- 

 cur in almost all other kinds of bead 

 objects, such as the sheets used in 

 making medicine bags, in collars, 

 baldrics, belts, and narrow strips, the 

 two ends being fastened together by 

 tying or otherwise. The cord itself 

 is then decorated with beads by sim- 

 ply threading on a single fiber and 

 wrapping this about the primary piece from one end to the other. By 

 a little care in the proper selection and arrangement of colors, very 

 pretty effects are produced. 



Beads are stitched on clothing, moccasins, etc, by simply threading 

 one or more beads on the needle and sewing them down along the out- 

 lines marked on the outside and afterward the inside of the article 

 which it is designed to ornament. 



As a rule, the ends of the pieces of beadwork are at right angles to 

 the direction of the warp, but in many small examples, such as collars 

 or necklaces, the ends terminate diagonally, an effect produced by the 

 successive rows containing one or two beads less than the preceding 

 row, the diagonal side being on one side of the article only, and not 

 divided so as to turn toward a central apex by simultaneously leaving 

 off one or more beads on both sides. 



In the third variety of bead-weaving there are only single vertical 

 threads between each, two beads as in the first named, but the cross- 



Fig. 47 — Design of second variety of working 

 in beads. 



