MOCHE: A PERUVIAN COASTAL COMMLXITV-^GILLIX 



147 



,' the national patron saint of Peru, is still fresh as 

 ;i iiistorical woman who lived and wrought miracles 

 in Lima. No doubt many individuals are more de- 

 ted to her material representation than to her spirit- 

 ' personality, but the image is not everj'thing. With 

 , other type of images, however, the idea of the 

 image itself as a personality or embodiment of super- 

 ural power seems to overshadow any notion for 

 . ;ch it might stand. 



New Year's is always celebrated, but not always 

 with a religious observance. 



Following is an inadequate translation of the cele- 

 bration of the Fiesta de Ramos (Palm Sunday) as 

 written for me by a true Mochero, IManuel Sique, a 

 young man who shows considerable promise as a 

 writer. It portrays one of the outstanding fiestas of 

 the year, as seen through the eyes of a representative 

 of the younger, progressive, and educated element of 

 the Mocheros. 



This movable fiesta takes place the Sunday before Holy 

 Week and is an annual event. The narrow streets of the 

 town are filled with people who come from surrounding 

 places. Amid the crowd, which can be counted in the 

 thousands, we can distinguish two types of pilgrims. Some 

 are manifestly Catholics and others only attend the fiesta 

 in order to enjoy the popular diversions. The fiesta begins 

 the previous Saturday. On this day the vespers are cele- 

 brated and the day has both a religious and a profane phase. 

 Thus we may note a general activity and a sudden growth 

 in the number of houses serving food and chicha. Also 

 booths for refreshments and amusement are set up in the 

 plaza. Each tries to present the most attractive menu. 



When the afternoon is well along, the ancient devotee of 

 the Sefior de Ramos, Don Juan Ascencio, is very busy, for 

 the altar of the Sefior must be ready by 7 o'clock in the 

 night. The altar where the image will be placed from 

 Saturday night until 4 o'clock the following afternoon is 

 located in the park where th^ water tower is, near the rail- 

 way tracks. At 7 :30 the bells of the church begin to ring, 

 calling the faithful and announcing to the town that the 

 religious fiesta has begun. Inside the church the liturgical 

 hour proceeds in the midst of a profuse illumination, and the 

 priest makes plain in suggestive form how The Savior 

 entered Jerusalem, Once this ceremony has been terminated, 

 the mayordomos proceed to carry out the Sefior de Ramos 

 (a life-sized image of Jesus) in their arms, taking him to 

 the outdoor altar which they have erected for this occasion. 

 The procession moves via the Calle Grau, continues via 

 Espinar and Salaverry, and finally via the Calle Galvez to 

 arrive at the place where is erected the altar. Along the 

 streets, the people give their adoration and with profound 

 devotion prolong the procession. Once the image has been 

 placed in the spot where it will pass the blessed night, those 

 who have not had opportunity to adore it proceed to do so. 

 As the hours of the night advance, the crowd begins to 

 diminish until the only ones left with the Sefior are those 

 who pass the night guarding the image, and receiving alms 



in the early morning from those who leave early for their 

 chacras to milk their cows. The youth of Moche mixed 

 with forasteros in a compact living mass occupy themselves 

 with the traditional dance which the Junta de Progreso Local 

 or one of the sport clubs has organized in the l>la::a. The 

 dance continues until nearly 5 o'clock in the morning. How 

 many couples will be from this moment inseparable lovers, 

 how many will have been deceived by illusory promises, and 

 how many will have felt they could have better spent the 

 time preparing for the following 'day ! But the gaiety began 

 on Saturday and will not depart until Holy Monday. 



The town arises very early, and with the arising, begins 

 Palm Sunday. The earliest risers have already visited the 

 altar of the image. Amid rustic aromas and surrounded by 

 flowers, the happy image of Christ Triumphant distributes 

 his benedictions to his adorers, .^gain the bells sound forth 

 their merry tones and groups of people fill the streets. The 

 temple is filled with Christian people from town and campiiia, 

 from port and city, from hacienda and chacra. The mass 

 begins with the rituals of the cult. The padre, from the sacred 

 pulpit, begins the sermon, turns his eyes to heaven, and 

 blesses in the name of God the crowd in the temple. A few 

 minutes later the music stops with the distribution of palms 

 and olive branches. Shortly afterward begins the renactment 

 of the entrance of Jesus into Jerusalem. For this the padre, 

 followed by the faithful, goes forth from the temple, and 

 they proceed to cover the streets to the image with palms and 

 olive branches. 



After this the people begin to look for a place to eat 

 lunch, some searching among the booths for those with the 

 best dishes and music, while others go to visit the houses 

 of their comadres. In many cases these visits are occasions 

 for household fiestas for hair cutting or ear opening of the 

 small children. 



In the afternoon begin the kernies and the dance. There 

 near the booth where they are selling cabrito, yuca, and 

 sweetpotatoes, the people are indulging in crioUismo without 

 equal. Here others are eating sopa teologa and other typical 

 dishes. Over there is a merry party quaffing chicha. In 

 other booths lively maidens offer, in addition to food and 

 drink, the temptation of ruby lips. The orchestra and the 

 band animate the dance and there is no place to sit quietly. 

 Everywhere is movement, agitation, and music. The minutes 

 slip away, the hours. The moment of the procession draws 

 near. The merry throng thins out as people go to the place 

 of the image. 



The tradition is displayed in this procession. A white 

 female ass is present in front of the altar. [This white 

 donkey roams the town freely during the rest of the year 

 and is fed and watered by whomever she visits.] The mayor- 

 domos divide into committees, one tt> direct the band of music 

 and the other to put the saddle on the "little donkey of Our 

 Lord." Here is the band of the Maestro Antonio Sachun 

 with his justly famous musicians. The image of The Sefior 

 is placed on the ass, and then begins the majestic procession 

 of Palm Sunday to the temple. 



The view which this transcendental procession affords is 

 magnificent. Palms and candles, music and faith, confounded 

 together in the most remarkable act of the year in the town 

 of Santa Lucia de Moche. Along the line of this procession 

 have been erected various altars, and the people along the 



