22 " PREHISTORIC TEXTILE ART. [eth akn. 13 



a degree of uuiformity and refinement that surprises us. The finest 

 threads with which I am acquainted are perhaps not as fine as our no. 

 10 ordinary spool cotton thread, but we are not justified in assuming 

 that more refined work was not done. What we have is only that which 

 happened to be preserved through burial with the dead or by impres- 

 sion on the plastic surface of clay used in the arts. 



The materials employed for spinning by the aborigines were greatly 

 diversified. Through historical as well as through purely archeologic 

 sources we learn that both vegetal and animal filaments and fibers were 

 freely used. The inner bark of the mulberry was a favorite material, 

 but other fibrous barks were utilized. Wild hemp, nettles, grasses, 

 and other like growths furnished much of the finer fibers. The hack- 

 ling was accomplished by means of the simplest devices, such as pound- 

 ing with hammers or sticks. The hair and sinews of animals were fre- 

 quently spun into threads and woven into cloth. 



A few citations from eai-ly authors will indicate sufficiently for present 

 piu'poses the methods of spinning and weaving employed by tribes 

 which, if not in all cases mound-builders, were at least the neighbors 

 and relatives of the mound-building Indians. 



Cloths. 



The character of the woven articles is to a great extent indicated in 

 the extracts which follow. It evidently was not customary to weave 

 "piece" goods, but rather to make separate units of costumes, furnish 

 ing, etc., for use without cutting, fitting, and sewing. Each piece was 

 practically complete when it came from the frame or loom. For cloth- 

 ing and personal use there were mantles, shawls, and cloaks to be worn 

 over one or both shoulders or about the body as described by Harlot, 

 Smith, the Knight of Elvas, Du Pratz, and others; there were skirts 

 fastened about the waist and drawn with an inserted cord or looped 

 over a belt ; there were belts, sashes, garters, shot pouches, and bags. 

 For household use there were hangings, covers for various articles, and 

 bed clothing; there were nets for fishing and cords for angling. Some 

 of these extracts describe the whole group of activities included in the 

 practice of the art as well as the use of the products. I have considered 

 it preferable to quote as a unit all that is said on the subject by each 

 author, giving cross reference, when necessary, in discussing particular 

 topics under other headings. 



Weaving among the Indians of New Jersey, Pennsylvania, New York, 

 and the northeast is described by Kalm, De la Potherie, and others. 

 The following extracts are from Kalm, and will serve to indicate the 

 status of the art over a wide area : 



Apocynum cannahinum was by the Swedes called Hemp of the Indians; and grew 

 plentifully in old corn grounds, in woods on hills, and in high glades. The Swedes 

 had given it the name of Indian hemp, because the Indians formerly, and even now, 

 ajjply it to the same purposes as the Europeans do hemp ; for the stalk may be divi- 

 ded into tilaments, and is easily prepared. When the Indians were yet settled among 



