CHAPTER XI. 



The Nature of Fei^t — Properties which Made the Beaver Vai,uabi.e 

 — The Wonderfui. Esteem of Oed "Beavers" — Legiseation 

 Concerning Beaver Hats — Processes of Manufacture — Beaver 

 WooE Adulterated and Finally Supplanted. 



The history of hats in dififerent ages and different climes, would 

 convey a great fund of information, and would doubtless mark the 

 stages of civilization more clearl}^ than the study of any other fea- 

 ture of our dress. At what time felted wool was first employed in 

 making hats, it would be difficult to say, though it is known to have 

 been used in Western Europe since the fourteenth century, when 

 felted hats were articles of luxury, and worn only by the rich. 

 How felting was discovered may ever remain a secret, as history af- 

 fords us only the traditions concerning St. Clement, which, though 

 of much simple beauty, would scarcely satisfy a scientific enquiry. 

 The story tells how St. Clement, a devout and generous priest, be- 

 coming weary and footsore while intent on one of his charity mis- 

 sions, found his sandaled feet so galled, that to proceed on his jour- 

 ney seemed impossible. He sought rest by the roadside, but his 

 attention was distracted by the bleating of lambs, while beyond the 

 hedge he beheld a fox chasing a lamb. AVith characteristic pity, 

 obeying the impulse of his good heart, he cleared the hedge, fright- 

 ened away the fox and saved the lamb, wherefore the grateful little 

 creature crouched lovingly at his feet, and expressed its gratitude in 

 eloquent glances. While fondling the lamb, St. Clement observed 

 some loose wool which he gathered and examined. The texture 

 was so lovely, that an inspiration suggested applying it to his lacer- 

 ated feet. He bound his wounds with the soft wool, and was able 

 to resume his pilgrimage. Reaching his destination, he removed 

 the sandals, and instead of the fine soft wool, he discovered a piece 

 of felted cloth. 



