STEVENSON. | EXPLORATION OF THE SPIRIT LAKE. 543 
whole expression of the old inan’s face was that of ghastly terror. I 
was much annoyed, for I thought that,at the eleventh hour, his fear had 
overcome his desire to gratify us. Just-then a Mexican lad on horse- 
back approached; we were all mounted. I asked the lad, “Is there a 
lake near by?” He replied, ‘“ Yes, a half a mile off.” The old Indian 
said, speaking in a whisper, ‘“* And you have seen it?” “Yes.” “And 
you were not afraid?” “No; why afraid?” “ And you looked into the 
waters and you did not die?” With a look of bewilderment the youth 
rode off. I signaled to the old man to accompany us to thelake. ‘ No, 
no; I would only die, and you must not go or you will die.” “ No,” said 
I, “we will not die if our hearts are good, and if you will not go it is 
because your heart is not good and you are afraid.” 
We found the lake so surrounded by marshes that we could not get 
within an eighth of a mile of the waters. One of our party attempted 
to reach it on foot, but could get very little nearer. We made a cir- 
cuit of the lake along the slightly elevated ground and could distinctly 
see it. 
On completing the circle a striking picture met our eyes. Boldly 
outlined by the setting sun stood the oid man, his hair blown by the 
evening breeze, for he had bared his head of the usual kerchief worn 
around it, and, with his hand holding the sacred meal extended toward 
the glorious sunset, he stood repeating a prayer. We halted, and 
he continued his prayer, wholly unconscious of our presence; as he 
turned we surprised him. [extended my hand and said, ‘ Now I am 
happy, for you are again brave and strong.” ‘ Yes,” said he, “my heart 
is glad. I have looked into the waters of my departed people. Iam 
alive, but Imay die; if I die it is well; my heart is glad.” From that 
moment the gloom was gone and he was bright and haopy. We could 
not induce the old man to ascend the mountain of the Kok-ko with us, 
as none go there except certain priests; but the lake is visited by those 
who are designated by these priests. 
Several days were consumed by us in exploring this immediate vicin- 
ity. On breaking camp, our old Indian guide seemed determined to 
tarry behind. Iremained with him. As the party rode off he took a 
large quantity of food which he had carefully stored away behind a 
tree—he having observed an almost absolute fast in order to make a 
large offering to the spirits of the departed —and heaped this food upon 
the embers of the camp fire, by the side of which he stood for a long 
time, supplicating in a most solemn manner the spirits of the departed 
to receive his offering. 
Certain men are selected, who, with bodies nude save the loin skirt 
and with bare feet, walk from Zuni to the lake, a distance of 45 miles, 
exposed to the scorching rays of the summer sun, to deposit plume 
sticks and pray forrain. If the hearts of those sent be pure and good, 
the clouds will gather and rain will fall, but if evil be in their hearts 
no rain will fall during the journey and they return with parched lips 
