An Excursion on Etna. 179 
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The sun had set in cloudless splendor, and as it rose on the 
morning of the same day, the summit of Etna was gilded with 
lis earliest rays. Not a breath of wind was abroad. All the 
favoring circumstances gave us every reason to hope that our 
labor would not be in vain, aud very naturally put us in good 
spirits for the wearying ride which was before us. 
esides ‘‘ Matteo” we had also ‘‘ Antonio,” another experienced 
guide, judging it unsafe from the possibility of accidents to go 
up with oue man only. Our party was therefore four men alto- 
gether, Mr. Brush and myself riding between the two guides. 
The night, as I have said, was serene, the stars shone in great 
brilliancy, and although there was no moon, we were soon able 
to see our way with sufficient clearness to inspire confidence. 
Our former experience with the mules had taught us that it was 
worse than useless to attempt to guide them, and that all we had 
to do was to sit still and let them follow the leader which they 
did with unerring step, seeming as if by instinct or by eyes in 
their shoes, to avoid every loose stone, and choose the securest 
foothold. 3 
Our path lay for nearly or quite two hours over an unbroken 
waste of ancient lava, unwooded and with not a plant or vine to 
mark our course. This field we had not before traversed as our 
former excursions had taken us by other paths and away from 
this route leading towards the summit. On coming down in the 
morning we saw it of course with more distinctness and shall 
speak of it again. This tract bounds the fertile zone of vines 
and figs, although from the barren nature of the ancient lava at 
this part of the fertile district there is rather the appearance of a 
vast desert. Emerging from our stony path at the upper edge o 
the old lava, we suddenly entered the wooded zone, the com- 
lad Occasion to ask. About twelve o’clock we came upon @ 
a hut where our guides dismounted and aro to us to 
the same, we found it was their purpose to feed the animals, 
which example we also followed by a resort to our provision 
