4 THE 
GARDENERS' 
CHRONICLE. 
[JAw: 3, 
might not be laid down for general cases (independent, 
in a considerable degree, of the question of size), which 
would carry out the views of the whole three. 
I propose not here to say anything about what is 
termed a flower garden ; this is, or ought to be ruled by 
a principle of its own, subservient only to the situation 
itis intended to oceupy, and to a just relation to the 
surrounding objects or scenery :— First, then, I would 
urge, that in the, disposition of ground to ornamental 
purposes, one main walk, of a greater width than the 
others, should traverse the whole domain; or at least 
that portion of it that is really interesting, or leading to 
striking views :— Secondly, that where space will admit 
of it, all other affairs of a purely decorative character 
should in the main be ruled by this leading principle, 
when once properly established, and should be as, it 
were episodes to the main design :—Thirdly, that the 
general outline of the planting should be of a bold and 
expressive charaeter, and bear a proper relation to the 
sinuosities of this walk ; and that all digressions from 
this should be aecomplished without any sacrifice of the 
main features, or of the sky or ground outlines. 
These principles being assumed, I will make a few 
remarks on what I consider prevailing errors. I have 
generally found that the boldest and most intricate out- 
lines have, by far, the most lasting effect; provided such 
walks are cleverly marked and supported by judicious 
planting. The spectator should not be allowed to see 
too much at once, unless from one or two favoured spots. 
The whole tour of the domain, in my opinion, should 
consist of a series of “ dissolving views,” if I may be 
allowed the term ; and if Nature has not created this 
character, it can be done more than some folks imagine 
upon a dead level, by bold lines, and intricate outlines of 
plantation alone. 
fno genes of outline, then, in leading walks, is, I would 
suggest, the besetting sin; in addition to which, the 
thirst for destruction of “breadth” of lawa (by throw- 
ing down single trees, and what are called clumps, in 
all directions), has a tendency to sacrifice all lively 
expression, to an endless and sometimes tiresome dis- 
play, in detail, of nieknaeks ; for which a much more 
legitimate situation might be found, and where they 
would be more at home. 
Two of the greatest improvements in modern orna- 
mental gardening, as principles, are, in my opinion, the 
almost total repudiation of the mixing flowers an 
shrubs, and of deep edgings to the outline of walks ;— 
both of which were plished in a iderabl 
degree by the late Mr. Loudon, who laboured unceas- 
ingly at this very point. 
The disposition of those flowers in masses, however, 
which have been banished the shrub border, is no very 
easy matter, without affecting the noble outlines which 
irregular plantations assume ; yet it will, I think, be 
granted that a dark background of evergreens is par- 
ticularly well adapted. to exhibit gay flowers in mass. 
Three leading principles in the disposition of . these 
masses, of shrub margins, should, I think, be allowed 
to regulate the whole :—First, that all bold recesses 
formed by the outline of plantations or shrubberies, 
should be held sacred—no masses here. Secondly, 
that they should be generally situated between the pro- 
minent points and the recesses ; nearer, however, to 
the points: and Thirdly, that in form or figure, when 
they are near the walk, one side of the figure should be 
nearly parallel to that walk; and when nearer the 
shrub border, they should in some degree adapt them- 
selves to the sinuosities of that border. » Elliptic, reni- 
form, or circular figures, will be found very well adapted 
in general, and will please longer than more complex 
forms; their business in this situation is chiefly to fur- 
nish colour; the figure and general expression being 
furnished after all by the marginal line of the shrubs. 
Where bold walks possess an extensive and broad 
margin of this kind, much may be done in the way of 
decoration, independent of the regular parterre : and if 
the naked of the d in winter were an 
objection, it would be easy where plenty of labour is 
allowed to turf or plant it at the approach of winter, 
when the gay ,Verbenas and Pelargoniums had quailed 
before the ice-king. To plant such masses with winter 
stuff, many eligible plants offer themselves—such as 
the common Wallflower, the Christmas Rose, the winter 
Aconite, the wild wood Anemone, the Snowdrop, the 
Crocus, the Windflower, Anemone, &e. Hundreds of 
these should be potted in due time, and well established: 
added to which a nursery of Rhododendrons, and other 
dwarf shrubs, such as Box, Aucuba, Laurustinus, &c., 
would be a useful adjunct. This is, however, carrying 
matters with a high hand, and presupposes consider- 
able expense. á 
Much discretion is requisite also in placing single 
permanent specimens of trees or shrubs on lawns, 
where it is requisite to preserve breadth of feature 
The immense acquisition of new plants, of late years, 
adapted for lawns, has foreed many a person into the 
dotting system, who formerly despised it: this is, un- 
doubtedly, a retrograde direction, however, in point of 
taste. Such things should, in general, where space 
allows it, form a slight digression from the main walks 
and principal lawns; and might, under good manage- 
ment, be made to form a distinct feature, without 
deranging the general plan. 
In places of some extent, it should ever be borne in 
mind that the formal edges of shrub-borders, which are 
absolutely necessary at first planting, are but means to 
a given end; these means are, however, frequently 
nistaken for the end, and the dubbing shears and 
edging-iron applied annually with a pertinacity truly 
mortifying to those who can appreciate better things. 
No formal cut lines can ever produce so rich an 
grand an effect as the majestically sweeping and rich 
outline, as well as varying tints, produced by such per- 
manent and massive forms as full-grown Hollies, Laurels, 
My wi 
| amongst 
Jarrattii, brachyceras, &c., it is scarcely fair to class 
winter flowers; with good management they 
may, however, be made to blossom abundantly by the 
beginning of February. Of course, forcing with these 
is much facilitated by a very early growth, as also early 
rest, in the year previous to the demands on their forcing 
Rhododendrons, &c., fringed overhead i y with 
pendent forms— such as the Laburnum, the Purple 
Beech, orithe Abies canadensis.—R. Errington, Oulton. 
A LIST OF GREENHOUSE PLANTS 
To keep up a ion of bloom throughout the year :— 
JULY. 
Sollya heterophylla, blue, 
Crowea saligna, pink. 
Chilodia scutellarioides, violet. 
wainsona coronillæfolia, pink 
Mimulus glutinosus, yellow, 
Statice Dickensonii, pink, 
JANUARY. 
Scottia dentata, red and green. 
acris grandiflora, scarlet. 
ala oppositifolia, pink. 
ia mixta, lilac. 
Trymalium odoratissimum, 
white, 
Corethrostylis bracteata, pink. 
FEBR 
Indigofera decor 
Phænocoma p 
Hovea pungens, blue, 
Epacris purpurascens, lilac. 
Ce avendishii, pale red, 
Acacia Riceana, yellow, 
Selago distans, blush. 
oronia serrulata, rose, g 
'EPTEMBER. 
Lilium lancifolium, white. 
Plumbago capensis, blue. 
RCH, 
Burchellia capensis, scarlet, 
Hovea Celsi, blue. 
Chorozema cordatum, yellow, 
Pimelea hispida, blush. 
Hardenbergia ovata, purple, 
Azalea EAM white, 
Babingtonia Camphorosme, 
Cestrum aurantiacum, yellow. 
Clethra arborea, white. 
Kalosanthes coccinea, scarlet. 
OTOBER, 
Veronica salicifolia, white. 
Sedum Sieboldii, pink. 
Chironia floribunda, pink. 
Spermadictyon azureum, blue, 
Lisianthus Russellianus, blue, 
Lyperia pinnatifida, violet, 
PRIL, 
Bouvardia splendens, scarlet, 
Witsenia corymbosa, blue. 
Pultenæa subumbellata, yellow 
Eriostemon buxifolium, lilac. 
Pimelea decussata, red. 
Ohorozema varium, yellow, 
AY. 
Mirbelia speciosa, purple. 
Boronia anemonefolia, pink. 
Bossiæa linophylla, orange. 
Epacris campanulata, red. 
Habrothamnus fasciculatus, 
BER, 
Pittosporum undulatum, white, 
Linum trigynum, yellow. 
"Templetonia glauca, crimson. 
Boldoa fragrans, green 
Lindleyana, påle red. 
Cor 
Mastacanthus sinensis, blue, 
DECEM: 
scarlet. 
Kennedya Marryattæ, scarlet. 
J Lueulia gratissima, rose. 
Candollea tetrandra, yellow. 
Indigofera syl ica, rosy-lilac. 
Burtonia conferta, violet. Jorræa rosea, rose. 
Chironia decussata, red. Tochroma tubulosum, blue. 
Veronica speciosa, purple, Primula sinensis, fl. pleno, 
Pimelea spectabilis, pink, 
Echeveria rosea, rose. 
WINTER FLOWERS. 
Centradenia rosea.—' This neat and dressy little 
flower, although not so gay as some of the forcing tribes, 
is nevertheless a most interesting little shrub ; and is 
searcely capable of forcing—in fact, scarcely needs it, 
as under ordinary cultivation it will blossom abundant] 
by the middle of January, on a warm and light shelf 
near the glass. Cuttings struck early in February, and 
highly cultivated, will be bushy plants by the end of 
June, at which time they should be chiefly in 5-inch 
pots, and should be removed from the stove or propa- 
gating house, to a light and airy greenhouse shelf. 
They must not be shifted after this, but allowed to 
become rather * pot-bound,” and will not require any 
further attention, except moderate waterings, until the 
end of September, when a few may be introduced to a 
light and warm shelf in a stove, or intermediate house, 
where a temperature of 65? to 70? by day can be given. 
The rest may follow successively ; and it is worthy of 
partieular remark, that they do not open well without 
the influence of considerable light: all forcing them 
without this is vain; therefore a very light shelf near 
the glass is indispensable. 
Soil, —Equal parts sound loam, sandy heath soil, and 
vegetable earth, with a good sprinkling of sand and 
charcoal. 
Hardy American Shrubs in General.—These, for all 
practical purposes, may be classed together, and a most 
important adjunet they are to the early forcing-house, 
where flowers are required on a large scale, and con- 
tinually, The following genera will be found most 
eligible for this purpose ; viz., Rhododendron, Azalea, 
Ledum, Daphne, Andromeda, Gaultheria, &c. 
removing these from the open border to force, care 
should be taken to mutilate their roots as little as 
possible. An old Pine pit is a very suitable place in 
which to commence their forcing. They should have 
a bottom-heat of 759, and an atmospheric temperature 
averaging 65? with abundance of atmospheric moisture 
permanently supplied. When severe economy is not a 
primary object, and a good stock of these delightful 
shrubs are required through the spring, the best plan 
by far is to pick the nurseries in the end of September, 
where, amongst thousands, those may be selected which 
are at once compact bushes, and abound in buds. 
After forcing they should be slightly protected whilst 
severe weather prevails, after which they may either be 
turned out of their pots in beds of peat carth, or be 
transferred to the American garden. Amongst these 
the Daphne eneorum is one of the most delightful 
plants when forced, that canbe imagined. About 
30 years since it was quite a custom to force these in 
the neighbourhood of the metropolis ; and at a nursery 
at which I spent some of my early days, we used to 
raft them on the common wood Laurel, on stems 
about 12 or 15 inches high. Managed thus, they pos- 
James Donald, 
sessed, in due time, umbrella-like heads, slightly pendu- 
ous; and when forced were the admiration of all. 
The little Gaultheria proeumbens, too, was another 
favourite in those days; and large tufts, in low and wide 
pe bearing a profusion of blossoms, had a very pretty 
effe 
Tropaolums. — These, such as T. tricolorum, T.! 
prop Bulbs which have been thus early aroused, 
and at rest by the end of June, are perfectly adapted 
to this end. My method is to half fill a 5-inch pot with 
sphagnum, and to lay one bulb of each on the surface ; 
then to close up the top with a handful of the same 
material, placing them in a cool cellar or fruit-room. 
By the end of August I remove the covering, as they 
will soon begin to shoot, and the moment this is per- 
ceived, I pot them ; and to do justice to this delicate: 
plant, the potting is a most important matter. 
Mode of Potting.—I mix equal portions of fibrous 
loam, sandy-heath soil, halfrotten leaves, half-rotten 
horse-manure, and charcoal in small fragments, about 
equal parts ; the whole of these materials as rough as 
possible. They are then passed through a riddle of 
nearly 2-inch mesh, and the largest portions reserved 
for the pot-bottoms ; the remainder is then subjected to 
the ordeal of a riddle of }-inch mesh, and the finer par- 
ticles of soil totally rejected. — In filling my pot for the 
bulb, Linvert a small pot ; ht itera charcoal in 
lumps, and on this I place the roughest of the material, 
and fill up with the last riddling. Nothing can succeed 
better than mine have done for many years. They 
should be watered very sparingly until they have half 
filled their trellis, and should at all times have a light 
and airy situation. A temperature of 60°, by day, is 
quite sufficient for them in December and January 5 
more will do mischief. Errington, Oulton. _ 
Home Correspondence. 
Culture of the Chinese Primrose.—Although this 
may be easily and successfully cultivated in pots, as re- 
commended at p. 704, yet it is more easily and advan- 
tageously cultivated in general by planting it out in 
some shady situation during the summer months, For 
t wering, speci the seed should be sown 
about the middle of March, in pots or pans, and placed 
in a little heat until the young plants appear, when they 
should be removed to a greenhouse. As soon as they 
are large enough let them be pricked out into pots or 
pans, keeping them in a shady part of the house. They 
will thus, with alittle attention, be strong plants, ready 
for planting out by the end of May. Prepare a frame 
under a north wall (the most suitable situation for 
them) with a compost of three-parts leaf-mould and a 
little turfy loam or sand. Let the plants be placed about 
6 or 8 inches apart; keep them close for a few days, 
after which the covering should be removed entirely, to 
allow the dews and rains to fall on them. They will 
require no more attention until the time arrives for 
potting, but they should have a liberal supply of water 
and liquid manure ly. The bad sp 
should, of course, be removed as they come into flower, 
in order to give the others more room to grow. About 
the middle of September they should be taken up and 
potted in 6, 7, or 8-inch pots, according to the object 
of the cultivator, in a compost similar to that recom- 
mended at p. 704 ; afterwards, replace them in the 
frame, keeping them close for a few days, and con- 
stantly wetting the foliage three or four times a day to 
keep them from flagging. In about a fortnight they 
may safely be removed to the greenhouse, and watered 
more sparingly as they come into flower. You will 
thus insure a good succession of bloom throughout the 
autumn. Seed for specimens to flower in spring should 
be sown about the middle of April, and treated as above, 
keeping them free from damp and frost during the 
winter months and giving them more water, as the 
spring advances, which is all that is required to make 
them flower abundantly. After the plants have done 
blooming, plant them out again as before, and they will 
make fine specimens for flowering in the following 
autumn.— C. Gardner, Stoneham Rectory. 
Thornfield Pines.—At p. 817, “M. G.” requests me to 
give him some information concerning my method of 
causing premature fruitfulness of the Pine-apple, which 
he states is of vast importance, and should not have 
been omitted in the first edition of my book. Now 
beg to differ from * M. G.” in this particular. Long 
practice has taught me that nothing which tends to 
check the roots is deserving of a place in any book on 
the culture of the Pine-apple at the present day. Any 
gardener, who will fully carry out my system, as laid 
down in my second edition, will have no reason to com- 
plain of unfruitfulness in the plants. The leading fea- 
tures of this system are, first, a peculiar mechanical 
arrangement of the soil (see pp. 2 and 62), by which the 
roots may be preserved in a healthy state for many 
years, without ever being disturbed. Secondly, pre- 
servation of the old stool (or storehouse of organizable 
matter, as it has been very justly termed), which will 
have to forego a triennial process, as mentioned at 
p. 52, to prevent the plant from. becoming inconve- 
niently bigh. Thirdly, uniformity of bottom-heat, see 
p. 55; and, Fourthly, a due amount of atmospheric 
moisture, see p..42. 1f the above directions are strictly 
attended to, I dare guarantee that any amateur or gar- 
dener, having a suitable house, will produce three full 
crops of average sized fruit in every two years. I have 
already cut four fruit from one plant in 15 months, and 
there is every probability of my cutting four fruit in the 
fortheoming twelvemonth from another plant.—Josoph 
Hamilton, Thornfield. 
Forcing Vines carly with badly ripened Wood. — 
