33—18406.] 
THE GARDENERS’ 
CHRONICLE, 
549 
three elements, they speedily languish and die. And yet 
we must not conclude that such substances as these are 
useless or superfluous articles of food. The mere fact 
that starch forms the chief ingredient in all farinaceous 
food is sufficient to satisfy us that it must serve in some 
way to support life, though it may not be of any use in 
adding to the materiais or wnich the animal tissues are 
composed, 
(To be continued.) 
THE AMATEUR GARDENER. 
On Buppinc Roszs.—The season is so far advanced 
that it is necessary to dispatch at once all that has to be 
Said on this subject. As the form of the segment con- 
taining the bud to be inserted, and of the incision made 
in the stock to receive it, have often been figured in the 
Chronicle and other works on gardening, the reader is 
referred to those illustrations to teach him the mode of 
p ding t is ded, however, to the 
uninitiated to see the operation performed if possible, 
Or five minutes’ practical demonstration will convey 
More real instruction than hours of reading. As suc- 
cess depends more on an acquaintance with little 
minuti? than on a knowledge of the broad features 
of the operation, I shall proceed to enumerate those 
Particul whieh has taught me the 
value of. 1 
The incision in the bark is often made too long. As 
a principle, it must be remembered that a living struc- 
ture should be wounded as little as possible, as the larger 
the wound is, the greater will be the effort of nature re- 
Quisite to heal it. The transverse cut should be made first, 
and must vary in breadth according to the size of the 
bud to be inserted. The vertical incision may be about 
three-quarters of an inch. Besides, the reason indi- 
Cated above for being sparing in the use of the knife, 
there is another equally important; I mean, that the 
inserted bud and its accompanying section of bark will 
fit closer than where the cuts in the stock are so wide 
and long. I have seen some budders expose so much 
of the juicy substance beneath the bark, that it has 
been difficult to keep the bud in its place ; whereas, if 
the fit is tight, the bud adheres of itself, its denuded 
Parts are brought into close contact with the stem, and 
A juncture is rapidly formed. If the rule respecting 
Short incisions is admitted, it must apply also to the 
ud. I consider it bad for the bark connected 
with the bud ever to project beyond, or lap 
Over the transverse cut; for if it does so, it 
Will be necessary to cut it off, and in doing this there is 
a risk of still further lacerating the stock. I always 
€ut out a bud with about $ of an inch of bark adhering 
to it, and make the whole sink below the transverse 
Cut. Iam persuaded this plan has its advantages, for 
the top of the bark adhering to the bud is in this way 
Applied as closely to the stem as the bottom of it is. 
Preparing the bud is an important matter, as the 
Success of the operation depends more on this than on 
any other particuli. A clumsy eut may be overcome, 
and bad tying-up will yield to the formative power of 
Vegetable life ; but if the embryo branch is not rightly 
Managed, its embryo state will never be passed. At 
one time most of my buds failed; now failure is an ex- 
ception to the rule. I attribute this to the way the 
buds are prepared for insertion. If the branch from 
which they are cut is very succulent, I cut a very thin 
Slice, and insert the whole, without attempting to extract 
the woody part, which, in such instances, is scarcely 
formed. If the branch is older, and contains well. 
formed wood, I always allow a portion of it to remain. 
All doubt as to whether the bud is perfect is thus re- 
Moved, which is not always the case when the woody 
fibre is quite extracted. I believe that in many cases 
the base of the bud is too depressed to allow a close 
Junction with the stock, and it thus perishes’; while, by 
caving a portion of the wood, this catastrophe is guarded 
against, 
Fine bass is preferable to anything else for tying in 
the bud. That which is clear in its texture, and does 
Not easily break, is the best, and it should be moistened 
With the mouth before it is applied. I generally 
Use a piece about a third of an inch wide, 
and 14 inches long, which I find enough for 
Ordinary cases; it is difficult to conceive what end is 
contemplated by those who wrap the infant Rose-bud in 
Such heavy swaddling bands. At the same time, put 
Sufficient around the object of your care, above and 
below ; let it be tightly aud regularly applied, taking 
Care not to interfere with the projecting bud. I once 
employed a clever gardener to bud a number of Briars, 
2nd he chose lamb's wool for his work, which was ex- 
Pensive, and, as far as I could dissover, in no wa 
Superior to matting. At all events, few of the buds suc- 
ceeded, partly owing to the lateness of the season when 
they were inserted; and during the winter the Driars 
hada discouraging appearance, with their long winding- 
Sheets of black lamb's wool inelosing defeat and death. 
« Was compelled to apply to them the old proverb, 
Illos non flocci estimo ;? * I think them not worth 
the wool.” 
A very few days will show whether the operation has 
Succeeded ; for, if it has not, the bud will quickly 
Wither, When you have reason to think a juncture is 
formed, loosen the bandage a little, to allow the sap to 
firculate more freely. A portion of the Briar must be 
left until the bud begins to grow, or to become plumper, 
When it may be cut down to within two or three eyes. 
When the bud has become a shoot, the whole of the 
Stock may be cut down close to it. I hope the amateur 
will have this pleasing duty to perform very frequent y, 
and that he will be careful while cutting off the super- 
fluous Briar, not to knoek off the young branch, as is 
sometimes done.—H. B. 
HARDY SUCCULENTS. 
Amone the various groups of plants, there are, per- 
haps, few more deserving of notice than hardy succu- 
lents, inasmuch as they may be grown with sūčcess bv 
all classes of the community. They are plants which 
require very little attention ; so tenacious of life are 
they, that many of them will flourish in situations where 
rocks and exposed places being the situations in which 
they are generally found. Sedum acre, one of the most 
common Sfonecrops, is often met with in rural districts 
occupying the sill of the cottager’s window, in pots, 
growing, and flowering profusely. Sempervivum tecto- 
rum, the common Houseleek, is universally known to 
grow on the roofs of houses, and tops of walls, and 
generally passed by unnoticed ; but if the flowers be 
examined minutely they will be found to be “no less 
beautiful than they are curious in their structure.” 
For artificial rock-work, we have no other plants that 
will survive during summer in the crevices and hollows 
of stones, to give them a lively appearance. 
‘or growing in small vases, too, many species of 
Stonecrop are well adapted, such as Sedum Sieboldii, S. 
hybridum, S. collinum ; and even some of the smaller 
sorts, as S. album, S. villosum, and S. Forsterianum, 
have a good affect planted on the surface of large vases 
which may contain Fuchsias, or similar plants liable to 
become bare at bottom. Among the various species o! 
Stonecrop and Houseleek, there are some, such ‘as 
Sedum hexangulare and anglicum, which, although they 
naturally live in dry situations very much exposed, yet 
will succeed planted in moist places, provided they are 
not kept too wet in winter ; while on the other hand, 
were S. dasyphyllum or Sempervivum arachnoideum 
planted on the ground, they would soon perish; such, 
then, are the sorts best adapted for rocks exposed to 
the sun. 
For those that may be planted in soil, a mixture of 
peat and loam in about equal parts will be found suit- 
able; but for those which it may be desirable as well 
as necessary to plant upon stones, a somewhat different 
compost should be used. Many do not require much 
soil; still they must have something for the roots to 
take hold of, and that must be of such a nature as not 
to crumble off when dry, nor yet to be easily washed 
off by rain. For this good clay should be selected, sifted 
heath-mould, and cow-dung ; these in equal proportions, 
well beat up with water until they become like brick- 
layer's mortar, will answer the purpose. This may be 
laid on with a trowel, and the plants immediately 
planted. The operation should be done in March or 
the beginning of April, in order that the plants may be 
alittle established before the sun becomes powerful. 
As such plants generally grow in patches, in order to 
inerease them they only require to be divided. 
For those who may be desirous of obtaining such 
plants, the following list contains the names of species 
most commonly met with :— 
Sempervivum montanum Sedum glaucum 
p globiferum cæruleum 
soboliferum sempervivoides 
un 
» 
” » 
” 
» 
4 ectorum 3) populifolium 
Penthorum sedoides » ternatum 
Umbilicus pendulinus s» ciliare 
» cruciatum 
rA erectus 
Sedum Sieboldii 5 spurium ~ 
» Forsterianum »  Telephium 
» pestre » acre 
»  hexangulare »  dasyphylum 
» Anglicum 5 hybridum 
»  reflexum s inum. 
» album » oppositifolium 
» villosum ,  Monregalense 
STATE OF THE POTATO CROP. 
Tue evidence already collected on this head is such 
as to show conctustveLy that the Potato disease is 
among us everywhere, in a more or less formidable 
state. Itis therefore useless to collect further infor- 
mation upon the subject, The melancholy Fact, so 
long denied or doubted, 1s ESTABLISHED beyond contro- 
versy. Henceforward we must limit the matter to be 
introduced into our pages to practical authenticated 
results, if any can be found. 
Home Correspondence. 
Fruit-Tree Borders——That turf from an old pasture 
is one of the best, if not the very best material that can 
be employed for a fruit-tree border, I believe most 
praetieal men will admit, and indeed from what has 
already appeared in your columns, it seems to be pretty 
generaly admitted. The objection to its use arises 
from the unwillingness usually felt to destroy that which, 
in most situations, is of such great value, and which, i 
destroyed, it may take a life-time to restore ; but by 
the following method this valuable article may be ob- 
tained without occasioning any permanent injury, or 
indeed any injury of long duration to the pasture from 
which it is taken. The remarks apply more particu- 
larly to the renovation of a worn-out border than to 
the original construction of a new one. Let the turves 
be cut from the old pasture in trenches, about the 
width of an ordinary spade. Let an interval of not less 
than 9 inches of the old turf be left between each trench 
undisturbed. These trenches must be afterwards filled 
up with^the earth dug from the old border, which 
though exhausted of matter essential to the healthy and 
no other plants will live, except Mosses and Lichens, à 
vigorous growth of fruit-t 
rich in vegetable matter, and well suited to the growth 
Those who have not witnessed the result 
of Grasses. 
si 
transferred from pots into the beds they are now grow- 
ing in, about the second week in June, and have made 
very strong and vigorous shoots, too much so, indeed, for 
any common frame. The only objection I find, is, that 
the leaves are very apt to scorch. I am growing some 
Beechwoods in the same range of pits, and whilst the 
leaves of the latter remain perfectly erect and uninjured, 
I fine those of the Ispahan, unless carefully shaded, 
burnt and drooping. I find also, that whilst the Ispa- 
han sets freely, I have great difficulty in getting the 
Beechwood to do so at all.—A. C. In a brick pit 
having two lights, each light 3 feet 3 inches wide, by 
8 feet long, I put four Melon-plants about the beginning 
of April, and I have cut from them the following : 
1 weighing when cut Ses. 205 
» » $e ue 
1 » » ues ib 8 
l 5» » 249-45 S RU 
2 5 » each6lbs. .. 12 0 
1 now growing on the Vine aaa 9 
7 
The above were of excellent flavour, the variety being 
scarlet-fleshed, with a, very thin rind, and ribbed, or 
what is called quartered; the shape was round. Its 
name I know not. I hope to have a second crop, having 
just trimmed the Vines with that view. I think you 
will agree with me that I have been exceedingly fortu- 
nate, especially when I inform you that they had not 
the least bottom-heat. But let me not be misunder- 
stood, for I intended they should have had it, and pre- 
pared my pits accordingly; but after two unsuccessful 
attempts to raise the heat (by stable manure) I could 
not ; it would not, and did not heat, owing I dare say 
to my bungling ; so I planted them, and allowed them 
to take their chance. — William Rayner, Surgeon, 
Uxbridge, August 4. 
Durability of the Wood of the Locust-tree.—In many 
instances the wood of the Locust-tree (Robinia’ Pseud- 
Acacia) may be advantageously substituted for other 
hard woods, not excepting Oak. The latter is, however, 
too often unfairly put to the test, even as regards the 
most important purpose for which it is employed. The 
value of its bark proves a vast temptation to fell the 
tree at the very worst season for the durability of its 
wood. If any one, for the sake of experiment, wishes 
to render a piece of wood in the most palatable condi- 
tion for worms, let him cut it when the sap has 
ascended, so that the bark will easily peel, in spring. 
In some cases it will soon crumble like a loaf, from 
which, in fact, its elements, and their arrangements, do 
not widely differ. Whether the Locust wood would 
excel the Oak, provided the latter were felled at the 
proper season, has, probably, not been fairly ascer- 
tained. The following notes relative to the duration of 
the Locust wood, or Robinia, have been made by M. 
Pepin, Jardin du Roi, Paris :—A number of trees were 
felled that had been planted from 40 to 45 years; but 
not more than one in five of those wheelwrights who 
came to purchase appreciated sufficiently the Locust, 
the others preferring Elm, Ultimately the Locust was 
sold to the person who knew its value, at one-third 
higher price than the Elm. ‘The purchaser found that 
spokes made of the wood in question lasted two sets of 
felloes, and were likely to answer for a third. Under 
equal circumstances of wear and tear, spokes made of 
Locust wood were perfectly sound, whilst those of Oak 
required to be replaced. M. Pepin further states that 
the ends of Locust gate-posts which had been in the soil 
for upwards of 40 years were still not deeayed. This 
sort of wood employed as feet, or supports, for chests 
made of Oak, proved sound, although the Oak planks in 
contact with them had been thrice renewed ; but Oal 
supports decayed simultaneously with the Oak planks 
composing the chests. Vine props of Locust wood are 
greatly esteemed.—||. 
Bees and Propolis.—Does “ M. H. C." recollect the 
position of the bee while in the act of removing propolis 
from the top of his hive, as noticed at p. 517 ; were the 
little balls formed by its mouth or the fore legs, as 
pollen is collected? Bees get propolis from buds of 
trees, &c.; but it is rather strange why it all smells nearly 
alike, from whatever quarter it is gathered, giving bee- 
hives a resinous aromatic scent in autumn. “C.” men- 
tions that he “never heard of propolis being worked 
over again ;” but as bees remove that substance about 
the inside of their hives, there can be no reason why they 
should not help themselves to it outside, in a similar 
way as Huber’s bees, from sticky Poplar buds pur- 
posely placed before his hives, When forming cells, 
