Repojt of a foiirncy Arotoid the World. 125 



as the train went rather slowly oa through a region the favorite 

 haunt of earthquakes which have left many a distinct mark. 

 Brindisi had grown greatly in size since my first visit in 1866, but 

 not in beauty, so far as could be seen, for it was nearly dark when 

 we left the train and our boat departed at midnight. Ithaca was 

 seen in the distance as we passed on, and we went so near to Zante 

 and Cephalonia that we could almost count the stakes in the vine- 

 yards where grapes were growing to later become currants. Our 

 arrival at Port Said was early on the morning of the third day, 

 and we were able to take the morning train for Cairo. The track 

 lay through a rather interesting part of the Delta, and as we rolled 

 southward the mud-built villages became closer and more interest- 

 ing, and we were almost sorry when we came to our last station. 



Shepheard's Hotel could offer us a choice of rooms, and many 

 of the other houses were closed for the summer. We found, how- 

 ever, that the weather was most comfortable, and the few days 

 spent in Cairo were most agreeably spent. It was a needed rest 

 after the rush of Europe, and after we had done our duty at the 

 Boulac Museum we thoroughly enjoyed the city. Of course we 

 went to the Pyramids, but not in the old waj'. In 1866 we had to 

 get things arranged the day before and then start earl}- in the 

 morning on donkey back, pick our way to the Nile, be ferried over 

 on a scow, then wind our way on a narrow path between the fields, 

 and at last get to the Pyramids late in the forenoon. We of course 

 took our lunch with us, and after a climb to the summit of Cheops, 

 an I a dive into the interior, we sat on the lower courses and eat 

 our food ; then it was a tiresome ride back to town and the day 

 was finished. At present one takes a barouche or an automobile 

 at the hotel, and an hour's drive on an excellent road over the fine 

 Nile bridge, through the thriving suburb of Ghizeh, then on a 

 long, straight road shaded with lebbek trees and watered with 

 hydrants, with houses or cultivated fields on either side, brings one 

 to the very foot of the great Pyramid, while close at hand is a 

 modern hotel with electric lights, running water and a swimming 

 bath, and this on the very edge of the great desert! As the Nile 

 was rising fast the cotton growers were cutting the partly ripened 

 crop to save what they could ; it was interesting to see how fast 

 the water rose, and the people hope for ten feet more. This rise of 



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